Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Collins
Page Views: 2,074 total · 39/month
Shared By: Alan Collins on Oct 27, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Finally another climb like Toxic! Huge jugs up a steep angle make up 100% of the climb! A great warm up for strong climbers and a good climb to project for aspiring 5.11 climbers. Fun and pumpy with a cryptic crux passing the 2nd bolt.

This climb is no longer R rated. Safe the whole way, ENJOY! Also the 5th bolt got move and replaced

Location

Left of Off the Wall

Protection

7 quickdraws, pre-hung anchors

Photos

Dave McRae
Bend, OR
 
Dave McRae   Bend, OR
 
Super fun! No real crux, just continuously steep and pumpy with good holds. Instant classic! Feb 27, 2015
John Collins
Bend Or
 
John Collins   Bend Or
 
I went back and lead the route again. Its not bad going to the second bolt. You need to get your left hand on the side pull jug just left on the arete, step around right to a big foot hold and reach right hand to a great side pull jug up high out right and its one more jug to the 2nd bolt. After getting the rope up we tried finding a good stance to clip a possible 2nd bolt and there just isnt much of one. I'm open to suggestions and another bolt is no big deal if you can stop and clip it.The route is a classic to me regardless. The fun starts once the 2nd bolt is clipped. Enjoy Apr 28, 2015
Dave McRae
Bend, OR
 
Dave McRae   Bend, OR
 
A new bolt was added between the first and second bolts to eliminate the R rating. 8/11/2016 Aug 13, 2016
danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.11a
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.11a
My new favorite 5.11 at Smith. Really fun. Feb 12, 2017
Rod J.
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Rod J.   Bend, OR
  5.11a
Ditto on the above comment. This is the best of the 11a(s) that I have climbed at Smith. Well worth the effort to get there. Thanks for putting it up! Oct 18, 2017
Steve W  
Just as a heads up, as of Dec 17, 2017, the 5th bolt was loose in the hole, and could be moved with light hand pressure. Dec 18, 2017
5th bolt pulled today (Feb 1), came out while we were using it as a TR directional so nobody was hurt.

Can potentially be protected with a 1, 2, or 3 cam to prevent what appears to be a ground fall Feb 1, 2018
Dave McRae
Bend, OR
 
Dave McRae   Bend, OR
 
As of March 2018, the loose fifth bolt has been replaced and moved to a spot more in line with the rest. Climb on! Mar 20, 2018
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
really great addition. fun crux low and honest jugs the rest of the way. Fun moves in between, good rests, rock quality seems good overall for a newer route, and no unnecessary runouts. would see a ton of traffic if it were in the main area. May 12, 2018