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Routes in (7) Marsupial Wall

ADHD (Adventure Dog Hank Direct) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Adventure Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Egos S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bucket List S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Call of the Wild S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daily Grind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doberman Pinscher S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dreamland S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Endless Summer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Half Breed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hong Kong Phooey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lords of Dogtown S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lost in Transitions S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Man's Best Friend S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off the Wall S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rip City S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Transworld S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Collins
Page Views: 1,470 total, 38/month
Shared By: Alan Collins on Sep 30, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Off the Wall features a compact crux followed by big overhanging moves on jugs. Start out on a jug left of the bolt line and climb through small crimps to get to the second bolt. True crux is after clipping the third bolt throwing to a jug, committing to the off the wall move. After the first anchor, continue up 2 more bolts following a seam to finish an even longer route. It doesn't add to the grade but it does add more fun 5.11 climbing.

If it is your first time out to the Marsupial Wall and you can climb 5.12, this is the line to make sure you get on. While the beginning is typical climbing for Smith Rocks, the overhang features jugs and big moves that will justify the long slog out. Closely placed bolts also make this a good lead for aspiring 5.12 climbers. Could be 5.11c or 5.11d.

Location

Left Side of the Marsupial Wall, 2nd most left route as of now.

Protection

5 bolts plus anchors
danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.11d
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.11d
Sweet route! Wish it were a bit longer. Not sure about the grade! Pretty powerful moves off some pinch/undercling features low...to a good rest before tackling a steep finish. Somewhat ominous looking death block about 20ft up and left of anchors? Thanks for the routes Alan! Feb 12, 2017
J.C. Collins
Bend Or
 
J.C. Collins   Bend Or
 
Stoked to have ticked this one. Great route going from technical to overhanging jugs. Might be 11+
or 12-. Lots of fun. May 2, 2015
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
 
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
 
The rock is amazing where its hard. The rock gets less desirable at above the last bolt on 5.9 climbing, but nothing that would detour anyone from the route. The start of vision is way more choosy than above the last bolt on this route. Nov 10, 2014
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Sounds like fun! Is the rock pretty clean? Oct 1, 2014