PRINT: Rock Climb Bucket List, Smith Rock

Bucket List

5.11a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 78 votes
FA: John Collins
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Marsupial Wall > (a) Dreamland

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Finally another climb like Toxic! Huge jugs up a steep angle make up 100% of the climb! A great warm up for strong climbers and a good climb to project for aspiring 5.11 climbers. Fun and pumpy with a cryptic crux passing the 2nd bolt.

This climb is no longer R rated. Safe the whole way, ENJOY! Also the 5th bolt got move and replaced

Location

Left of Off the Wall

Protection

7 quickdraws, pre-hung anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rad route!!

Topo of Bucket List

Scott E. working up the steep buckets

5th bolt pulled today, came out while we were using it as a TR directional so nobody was hurt.
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Can potentially be protected with a 1, 2, or 3 cam to prevent what appears to be a ground fall

5th bolt pulled today, came out while we were using it as a TR directional so nobody was hurt. Can potentially be protected with a 1, 2, or 3 cam to prevent what appears to be a ground fall

Possibly R rated due to this run to the 2nd bolt. All jugs once the bolt gets under your feet

Clipping the anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave McRae
Bend, OR

Super fun! No real crux, just continuously steep and pumpy with good holds. Instant classic! Feb 27, 2015

Dave McRae
Bend, OR

A new bolt was added between the first and second bolts to eliminate the R rating. 8/11/2016 Aug 13, 2016

Daniel Jordan
Boulder, CO

5.11a

My new favorite 5.11 at Smith. Really fun. Feb 12, 2017

Rod J
Bend, OR

5.11a

Ditto on the above comment. This is the best of the 11a(s) that I have climbed at Smith. Well worth the effort to get there. Thanks for putting it up! Oct 18, 2017

Steve W

Just as a heads up, as of Dec 17, 2017, the 5th bolt was loose in the hole, and could be moved with light hand pressure. Dec 18, 2017

Maxwell Jackson

5th bolt pulled today (Feb 1), came out while we were using it as a TR directional so nobody was hurt.

Can potentially be protected with a 1, 2, or 3 cam to prevent what appears to be a ground fall Feb 1, 2018

Dave McRae
Bend, OR

As of March 2018, the loose fifth bolt has been replaced and moved to a spot more in line with the rest. Climb on! Mar 20, 2018

CritConrad
Bend, OR

really great addition. fun crux low and honest jugs the rest of the way. Fun moves in between, good rests, rock quality seems good overall for a newer route, and no unnecessary runouts. would see a ton of traffic if it were in the main area. May 12, 2018