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Routes in OH8

Bat Stupor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blind Ambition T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buckwheat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butt Shiner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carl's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chain Gang, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Columbiana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dreaming T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
End of the Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forest Circus Fiasco S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gap, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Get it, Shorty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostile Old Hikers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Itchy and Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just a Freakin' Rock Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Molly's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Space Plan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paul's Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penstemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rattlesnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Risky Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ron Love EuroTrou S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ron Love Verly S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sacagawea's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sasquatch T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shuttler, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Breezes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Squirrel Stew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tidewater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wind Dummy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 202 total · 5/month
Shared By: dmPete on Oct 22, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route has some stellar moves, and would easily be one of the best at OH8, except that it has a number of factors working against it.

One of the cam placements is right on top of a big sprig of poison oak that grows right out of the face, there's loose rock in the roof section at the top of the climb, and the anchors are a real pain to deal with.

If these items - and the fact that this rocky section of the path is a welcome home for rattlesnakes - does not deter, you'll find some truly engaging movement on the first face, followed by pumpy, jug throws to ascend the overhanging bulge at the end.

Location [Suggest Change]

About half way down the approach trail there is a second rocky section in the path. Look for the bolt line in the middle of the face.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Quickdraws and midsized cams. Anchors are two bolts set one above the other with a chain running between the two. One rap ring. Not ideal.

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