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Routes in OH8

Bat Stupor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blind Ambition T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buckwheat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butt Shiner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carl's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chain Gang, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Columbiana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dreaming T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
End of the Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forest Circus Fiasco S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gap, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Get it, Shorty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostile Old Hikers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Itchy and Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just a Freakin' Rock Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Molly's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Space Plan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paul's Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penstemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rattlesnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Risky Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ron Love Verly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacagawea's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sasquatch T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shuttler, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Breezes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Squirrel Stew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tidewater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wind Dummy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 191 total · 5/month
Shared By: dmPete on Oct 22, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

This route has some stellar moves, and would easily be one of the best at OH8, except that it has a number of factors working against it.

One of the cam placements is right on top of a big sprig of poison oak that grows right out of the face, there's loose rock in the roof section at the top of the climb, and the anchors are a real pain to deal with.

If these items - and the fact that this rocky section of the path is a welcome home for rattlesnakes - does not deter, you'll find some truly engaging movement on the first face, followed by pumpy, jug throws to ascend the overhanging bulge at the end.

Location

About half way down the approach trail there is a second rocky section in the path. Look for the bolt line in the middle of the face.

Protection

Quickdraws and midsized cams. Anchors are two bolts set one above the other with a chain running between the two. One rap ring. Not ideal.

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