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Routes in OH8

Bat Stupor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blind Ambition T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buckwheat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butt Shiner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carl's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chain Gang, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Columbiana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dreaming T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
End of the Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forest Circus Fiasco S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gap, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Get it, Shorty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostile Old Hikers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Itchy and Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just a Freakin' Rock Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Molly's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Space Plan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paul's Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penstemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rattlesnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Risky Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ron Love Verly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacagawea's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sasquatch T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shuttler, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Breezes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Squirrel Stew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tidewater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wind Dummy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 348 total · 9/month
Shared By: dmPete on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

Super fun route! The first half is 5.9 climbing through a satisfying dihedral onto a ledge. The second half is face climbing over (or around) an overhang onto a sparse face with small holds.

A bit contrived near the top, as there is an alternate, 5.9 version that heads right and skirts the crux. Heading entirely left past the last two bolts seems a bit harder than 10d, however.

Protection

Quickdraws and cams. Smaller cams for lower section, 2" and 3" cams will be useful near the top of the route. Bolted anchors.

Location

About 100 feet left of "Wind Dummy"/"Tidewater." Look for a vertical red face split by three cracks that intersect to make an asterisk just above a scooped out roof.

Photos

dmPete
 
dmPete  
 
Near the top, staying left, I ended up stuck using a left heel-hook, left fist jam (next to a gear placement) and a desperate move to find a single good right hand above...unique and fun, but kind of nervy. Oct 10, 2014

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