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Routes in OH8

Bat Stupor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blind Ambition T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buckwheat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butt Shiner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carl's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chain Gang, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Columbiana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dreaming T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
End of the Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forest Circus Fiasco S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gap, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Get it, Shorty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostile Old Hikers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Itchy and Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just a Freakin' Rock Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Molly's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Space Plan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paul's Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penstemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rattlesnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Risky Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ron Love Verly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacagawea's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sasquatch T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shuttler, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Breezes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Squirrel Stew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tidewater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wind Dummy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 915 total, 24/month
Shared By: dmPete on Oct 19, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Easily the best route at OH8, and probably the most consistently difficult at the crag. This long, exciting route has a little of everything. Three crux sections will quickly make themselves obvious when climbing this route for the first time:

The moves off the deck through the first slab section and up to the second bolt are very thin, technical and crimpy. Climbing only the face here earns the grade, though climbing left for a safe first clip and gear placement won't spoil the route.

The second crux hits about half way up with a specific sequence of larger moves to attain a ledge.

The sequence for pulling the final roof constitutes the final crux, mostly for the larger moves and pump factor...but it's also the best part!

Location

15 feet right of Tidewater/Wind Dummy. The tallest climb in the vicinity. Look for a big, undulating red/orange face with a wide horizontal black stripe about 3/4 of the way up the route.

Protection

Quickdraws and a couple of cams with very obvious, solid placements. Bolted anchors.

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