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Routes in OH8

Bat Stupor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blind Ambition T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buckwheat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butt Shiner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carl's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chain Gang, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Columbiana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dreaming T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
End of the Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forest Circus Fiasco S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gap, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Get it, Shorty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostile Old Hikers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Itchy and Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just a Freakin' Rock Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Molly's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Space Plan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paul's Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penstemon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rattlesnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reed's Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Risky Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ron Love Verly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacagawea's Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sasquatch T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shuttler, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Breezes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Squirrel Stew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tidewater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wind Dummy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 267 total, 7/month
Shared By: dmPete on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

A fun, but frustratingly inconsistent route with an impressive, strong finishing move. Entertaining 5.8-level climbing up a very blocky/ledgy face through 6 bolts, followed by a crux that feels like a completely different climb.

The last couple moves of this route are on a severely overhanging bulge at the top. It requires the use of small crimps, a couple of slopers, a throw, and an awesome pull-up/mantle, with no foot holds. The single hardest move at the crag.

The crux can be circumvented by climbing the dirty crack to the left and traversing back onto the face of the bulge at the anchors (probably 5.9 or 5.10a climbing). Not recommended for fun factor, but a good way to get your gear back if you can't make the crux move on the face.

Location

Five feet right of "Bat Stupor," third to last route along the approach path. Look for a short, vertical very blocky face with a couple of large, overhanging boulders at the top. "Forest Circus Fiasco" is the right bolt line on this face.

Protection

Quickdraws. Bolted anchor.

Photos

dmPete
 
dmPete  
 
Sixth bolt (the one protecting the crux) was loose and spinning. I hand-tightened it as much as I could while up there, but did not have the gear to really tighten it down the way it should be. Jan 26, 2015