Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Reed Fee 7/13
Page Views: 686 total · 14/month
Shared By: Reed Fee on Oct 21, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Start in the crack right of Red headed Yeti. Both routes share the same crack for about 15'. Go right at the anchors on the hidden ledge for the Betty. Follow obvious crack to the anchor in a chimny. There may be some loose rock near a cherry bush and horizontal area of funky rock.

Protection

Pro to 3. Doubles would be crucial if done as one pitch.

Photos

David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.7
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.7
5.7+? You're a rebel Reed. Oct 22, 2014
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.7
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.7
Reed, I though you FAd this in two pitches with Elmo? Jan 9, 2015
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.7
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.7
Some loose rock in the last 20 feet before the anchor could be dangerous to people on the belay ledge between Monster Crack and Primal Institution. Suggest using Primal Institution anchors until resolved. Jun 19, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.8
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.8
This one felt only slightly easier than Nosferatu, maybe more like 5.8+? Regardless, a super fun route. Doubles to 3" worked well for doing the 70m single pitch. Didn't seem to be much for loose rock? Maybe it got cleaned off already? Jun 22, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8+
Grading at this place is so weird. This was the one route that I didn't feel was super-soft. Long, fun, a little thought required to find good gear, and some face holds to keep things interesting. We stopped at the Primal Institution anchor. This was already about 100' and definitely liked having doubles of mid sizes. Jul 4, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.8+
Not having doubles (just standard rack), I wasn't sure how far I could go. Got to the first set of anchors on the left, found I still had gear, and kept going to the anchors at Primal Institution. I would have wanted more gear after that. I was also a little concerned about the loose-looking rock before the final anchor. A 70m rope would have definitely allowed one to do as single pitch. Aug 14, 2017
Ryan O
Portland, OR
Ryan O   Portland, OR
Tightened the nut on the left bolt of the anchors (pair of anchors just above and to the right of the overhanging block/roof at the top of the second crack for this climb. Didn't use a torque wrench, I'll try to remember to bring one next time, but maybe someone can tighten with a torque wrench soon. May 6, 2018
bryans
  5.8+
bryans  
  5.8+
Excellent endurance crack, protects pretty well. Crux comes getting to the tree way up there. No single sequence is quite 5-9, but keeping it together to the final anchor is a challenge if you place gear every body length like I try to do. Save .75-2 inch gear for the finish above the tree, which is totally worth doing, as super friendly jugs appear just in time as you race to the anchor. Loved this route. Oct 21, 2018