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Routes in (7) Gods and Monsters Wall

Belly of the Beast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buddha Belly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crackalicous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crouching Climber Ridden Dragon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Getting It Up For The Crack Of Dawn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Goddess of Virtue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Godzilla We Trust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
KnowWhatIMean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monster Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morosoarus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nosferatu T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oroboros T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Child S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Primal Institution S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Project 1 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Project 2 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Project 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Headed Yeti, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shaken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sphinx, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taken S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trapped In Time / Medussa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yeti's Betty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA Elmo Mesko
Page Views: 229 total, 6/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

The crux of this route is down low. Follow the crack right, through a roof shaped like a lizard head. Difficult & pumpy getting over the roof and into the vertical crack. Follow finger & hand jams to the anchor on the right side of the crack.

Protection

Standard rack to hand sizes.

Photos

Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball shamed me into reconsidering: I tried the crux roof move again on TR a week ago when lowering from /Belly of the Beast/ and found it relatively easy to lie back through it (instead of jamming, where I had a lot of trouble getting my feet up). Still a 5.10 move, but given that it's only a single move 5.10- seems reasonable. It would probably be a 5.8 at JTree, but I still don't think it's 5.9 at Klinger ;)

When I led it I protected the roof move with a larger cam, a BD #2 or #3. Sep 26, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
I didn't encounter a loose hold on the route, but I did hear a "clunk" when I mounted the lizard head. Seems there is a loose but wedged plate on the top - the head itself is not loose.

It's pretty tough to protect the roof move adequately. I ended up using a large nut actually. However, the hand jams are bomber, the feet are there, and then you're pulling on jugs. Not a 5.10 even if you've only ever climbed at Planet Granite. Jul 4, 2017
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
  5.10-
Above the roof crux -- which felt more like 5.10+ to me, but my technique wasn't good -- it's mostly 5.8 the rest of the way, perhaps with a few 5.9 moves. If you can climb Belly of the Beast to the left of this, then you'll have no problem after you pull the roof.

Seems hard to believe the lizard boulder/roof could be lose enough that a human could wobble it: it's a huge rock!

Also, there's a scary lose rock near the top (4/5ths of the way up?), on the left side of the crack. It's obvious. It's the best hold in that area, but you might not want to stand on it ... May 29, 2017
Warren H
Seattle
Warren H   Seattle
The crux lizard head roof is a bit loose. While rappelling down, it shifted slightly when I pushed off it. Jun 6, 2016