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Routes in (7) Gods and Monsters Wall

Belly of the Beast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buddha Belly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crackalicous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crouching Climber Ridden Dragon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Getting It Up For The Crack Of Dawn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goddess of Virtue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In Godzilla We Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
KnowWhatIMean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monster Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Morosoarus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nosferatu T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oroboros T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Child S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Primal Institution S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Headed Yeti, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shaken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sphinx, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taken S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trapped In Time / Medussa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 1 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 2 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yeti's Betty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA Elmo Mesko
Page Views: 334 total · 7/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

The crux of this route is down low. Follow the crack right, through a roof shaped like a lizard head. Difficult & pumpy getting over the roof and into the vertical crack. Follow finger & hand jams to the anchor on the right side of the crack.

Protection

Standard rack to hand sizes.

Photos

Warren H
Seattle
Warren H   Seattle
The crux lizard head roof is a bit loose. While rappelling down, it shifted slightly when I pushed off it. Jun 6, 2016
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
  5.10-
Above the roof crux -- which felt more like 5.10+ to me, but my technique wasn't good -- it's mostly 5.8 the rest of the way, perhaps with a few 5.9 moves. If you can climb Belly of the Beast to the left of this, then you'll have no problem after you pull the roof.

Seems hard to believe the lizard boulder/roof could be lose enough that a human could wobble it: it's a huge rock!

Also, there's a scary lose rock near the top (4/5ths of the way up?), on the left side of the crack. It's obvious. It's the best hold in that area, but you might not want to stand on it ... May 29, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
I didn't encounter a loose hold on the route, but I did hear a "clunk" when I mounted the lizard head. Seems there is a loose but wedged plate on the top - the head itself is not loose.

It's pretty tough to protect the roof move adequately. I ended up using a large nut actually. However, the hand jams are bomber, the feet are there, and then you're pulling on jugs. Not a 5.10 even if you've only ever climbed at Planet Granite. Jul 4, 2017
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball shamed me into reconsidering: I tried the crux roof move again on TR a week ago when lowering from /Belly of the Beast/ and found it relatively easy to lie back through it (instead of jamming, where I had a lot of trouble getting my feet up). Still a 5.10 move, but given that it's only a single move 5.10- seems reasonable. It would probably be a 5.8 at JTree, but I still don't think it's 5.9 at Klinger ;)

When I led it I protected the roof move with a larger cam, a BD #2 or #3. Sep 26, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10a/b
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10a/b
I followed this route. Pulling the roof definitely isn't as bad as it looks though it is quite committing once you get your feet up.

The rest of the route is mostly fingers (some bomber locks) with a few choice hand jams. I found it more vertical than some of the neighboring cracks.

Overall, a really great route! Jun 4, 2018
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
  5.10b
I think this route is definitely 5.10. It's for sure only a few hard moves, but it's definitely harder than Ripper (5.9) or Snake Roof (5.10a) at Ozone or Moonshine (5.9) at Smith. I think 10b is pretty reasonable? Anyway, worth doing! I found the roof move to protect fairly well, lots of size options for cams under there. Jun 24, 2018
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10a/b
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10a/b
Finally redpointed this beast. I found it more visually intimidating than physical.

I got a great yellow UMC and red C4 to protect the roof. Then, you can get a great horizontal blue C4 afterward. From there out there's great nut placements and smaller cams.

I think this route goes at 10- (a/b); even with the roof, it's mostly finger crack to the chains with the occasional hand-jam. Aug 13, 2018

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