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Routes in Tall Cliffs

Balloon Party TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beta Junkie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Circumciser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dolly TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fly the Friendly Skies T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Full Tilt Boogie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandpa's Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hara-Kiri in a Combine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Horrible Human History T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In Cahoots TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Screamin' Hooter Queens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Joe Pro T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muchachas Borrachas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Stinky Hole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Number Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Eight Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rosy Palms T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thanks for the Mammaries S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown bolted route between Number Eight and Dolly S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Fritz, Bedell 1989
Page Views: 423 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on Oct 17, 2014
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

Anyone who can tell me how to actually climb this route gets a gold star. Bolts go straight up a blank face with only an occasional hold. You have to climb far left or right of the bolt-line to reach the top; I crossed the bolt-line several times but rarely climbed on it. Once you reach the top, clip the last bolt as you commit to the juggy roof. After pulling the roof, you will reach a tenuous stance 5 ft below the chains. Imagine your face smashing into the roof below your feet if you fall and curse whoever decided not to protect this section with a bolt. Flail up towards the chains.
  • *Edit: Just to clarify, this is not a PG13, R, or X rated route. My point is that it is a heady route that is difficult to read and a scary fall if you blow it at the top. I would not put a 5.9 or even a weak 5.10 climber on this. You decide for yourself.

Location

Middle of the Tall Cliffs, 20 feet left of the large painted 8. See picture.

Protection

6 bolts to chains.

Photos

Paul Hutton
Dirtbaggin
 
Paul Hutton   Dirtbaggin
 
Quite a runout from the last bolt to the anchor, but the last bolt is in the overhang, extended away from the vertical wall. This means that if you fall anywhere in the steep roof section, you'll clear the roof, and not get whipped hard into the wall.

The description for this page was written by a tense, dramatic newb. Nov 1, 2016
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
This route is not a gimme for the grade, but it is MORE than safe. I found veering left right after the roof, and then immediately right. or just try hard. The description is a tad melodramatic, no such danger on this sport line. Feb 7, 2016
Wilburn
Cheyenne, WY
 
Wilburn   Cheyenne, WY
 
That's a pretty melodramatic description of the route. Good sense and an adequate belay are more than enough to finish this route safely. Oct 2, 2015
I seem to recall finding some thin gear after the roof before the anchors - Lowe Balls are sticking in my head (very useful on a number of Black Cliffs routes with inadequate "sport route" bolting jobs. Aug 31, 2015