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Routes in Tall Cliffs

Balloon Party TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beta Junkie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Circumciser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dolly TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fly the Friendly Skies T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Full Tilt Boogie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandpa's Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hara-Kiri in a Combine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Horrible Human History T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In Cahoots TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Screamin' Hooter Queens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Joe Pro T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muchachas Borrachas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Stinky Hole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Number Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Eight Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rosy Palms T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thanks for the Mammaries S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown bolted route between Number Eight and Dolly S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dustin Buckthal & Taylor Jensen - 1998
Page Views: 116 total, 2/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Mar 10, 2013
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

A fun, yet appropriately named, route. Climb the column without using the cracks on either side.

A tricky start on thin holds through a roof (crux) leads to the first bolt. If you don't want to commit to the moves before the first bolt, you can climb the crack next to the column, clip bolt #1 from there, then downclimb and start the route with the rope clipped above.

After the initial crux, easy but fun jug pulling up the vertical column commences past several more bolts before reaching a bird-poo covered ledge (Hence the name).

From the ledge, clip the last bolt and head up and slightly left onto steep rock. You may want to bring some tiny nuts or cams to protect the final awkward step to the right to gain the anchors.

Location

The next bolted route to the left of Beta Junkie.

Protection

6 bolts, plus a tiny cam/nut or two. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The blocks stacked at the top of this pillar, and this column really, look like they could come down at any time. I'm sure they've been there thousands of years, and it was a fun climb, but I wont be getting on this route again. Oct 17, 2014