Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Sandi Epeldi - 6/2001
Page Views: 371 total · 5/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Mar 10, 2013
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Short but sweet! Scramble up the blocky terrain to the overhanging roof crack and commence jamming! The crack varies from hands to fists.

Sandi Epeldi's book gives this route 5.11C, but when we climbed it we felt that it wasn't harder than 5.10. The jams are solid the whole way, and if you look around there are a few key feet that help. Whatever the grade, it's a fun climb with great pro!

Location

This route is located on the other side of the talus field at the right end of the Tall Cliffs. Once you cross the talus it should be obvious.

Protection

Pro from 0.75" to 3". Anchor is 1 bolt that can be backed up with gear.

To get down, you can top out and walk over to the Muchachas Borrachas anchors and rap from there. Be careful when leaning over to clip them.

Photos

R.Walters
  5.10+
R.Walters  
  5.10+
Great boulder problem on a rope.
Bring finger-sized gear to back up the lone bolt for the follower.
Sketchy getting down via Muchachas rappel (scree). Another option would be to drop your line down Jet Screamin' though I haven't tried this. Mar 12, 2013