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Routes in Tall Cliffs

Balloon Party TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beta Junkie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Circumciser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dolly TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fly the Friendly Skies T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Full Tilt Boogie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grandpa's Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hara-Kiri in a Combine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Horrible Human History T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In Cahoots TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Screamin' Hooter Queens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Joe Pro T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muchachas Borrachas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Stinky Hole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Number Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Number Eight Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rosy Palms T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thanks for the Mammaries S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown bolted route between Number Eight and Dolly S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Sandi Epeldi - 6/2001
Page Views: 336 total, 6/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Mar 10, 2013
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

Short but sweet! Scramble up the blocky terrain to the overhanging roof crack and commence jamming! The crack varies from hands to fists.

Sandi Epeldi's book gives this route 5.11C, but when we climbed it we felt that it wasn't harder than 5.10. The jams are solid the whole way, and if you look around there are a few key feet that help. Whatever the grade, it's a fun climb with great pro!

Location

This route is located on the other side of the talus field at the right end of the Tall Cliffs. Once you cross the talus it should be obvious.

Protection

Pro from 0.75" to 3". Anchor is 1 bolt that can be backed up with gear.

To get down, you can top out and walk over to the Muchachas Borrachas anchors and rap from there. Be careful when leaning over to clip them.

Photos

R.Walters
  5.10+
R.Walters  
  5.10+
Great boulder problem on a rope.
Bring finger-sized gear to back up the lone bolt for the follower.
Sketchy getting down via Muchachas rappel (scree). Another option would be to drop your line down Jet Screamin' though I haven't tried this. Mar 12, 2013