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Routes in East Bluff Linkups

Astroboy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balanced Rock Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Massive Major Multi-Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Noble Arches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
North Shore Lunch Circuit V2 5+
Pseudo Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: A cast of DL's finest
Page Views: 467 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

An older variation of the Rifle guidebook describes The Chain Gang, a series of routes in the single-pitch Arsenal, as the best multipich sport climb in Colorado, marred only by the fact that you have to lower to the ground after every pitch.

Well, I would call Astroboy one of the best multi-pitch trad climbs in the country, marred only by the fact that you have to walk back to the base after every pitch. Astroboy is arguably the classiest of the numerous Devil's Lake linkups.

The rule is pretty simple: Lead 10 different 5.10s on the East Rampart. But wait, you say, I can think of 5, 6, even 7 good 5.10 leads on the East, but 10, how can I find 10 leads? Therein lies the difficulty of Astroboy. You have to lead some routes that, let's be honest, you wouldn't normally think of leading. When was the last time you led The Monster? Or Mongo Fury (Burt, you don't count!)? Or Pine Box? And maybe consider adding Thoroughfare, because, I don't know about you, but I'd rather lead Thoroughfare than, say, Big Deal.

Here's the order I chose for Astroboy:

1. Mongo Fury
2. Sometimes
3. Flake Route
4. Congrats
5. Pine Box (DON'T tell me it's 5.9+)
6. Thoroughfare
7. Callipigeanous
8. Mouse's Misery
9. Cheatah
10. Alpha Centauri

But that's what I chose. Page through the guidebook, talk to your partner, and make your own plan. And then be prepared to change your plan when your chosen route is swarming with Boy Scouts. Also be prepared to hang out in the Cool Lot (is that even still a thing?) after your long day. Over beers and beta spray, casually remark that you climbed Astroboy, and that Pine Box wasn't so bad, and that Mongo Fury is a neglected classic, and that you just had one of your best days at the Lake. Ever.

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Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
Back in '11 I did seven 5.10's in a day (and something like 24-30 for the season) for the Hoofer Mountaineers' Devils Lake Century Challenge. Since I was trying to score lots of points, I did all the variations of Sometimes.

1. Sometimes Crack
2. Sometimes Right
3. Blow Up
4. Congratulations (OS)
5. Big Deal (I wouldn't ever lead that again)
6. Callipigeanous Crack
7. Cheetah Oct 6, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Sounds like a great day Tom. I agree with you...I'll never lead Big Deal again! Oct 6, 2014
We did

Death Leap
Sometime Right
Sometime
Sometime Direct
Blow Up
Congrats
Flake Route
Cali P
Cheatah
Monster
Mongo Fury

As part of the Altay Classic. I'm not really sure when we started or when we finished Monster, but I think we were warming up at 9:30 or so and back at North Shore by 3:00 so maybe five hours or something to do them?

Not really the best style having those overlapping sections of climbing on Sometime Right / Sometime & Sometime Direct and Blow Up but fun shit anyway. Oct 21, 2017

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