Type: Trad, 1600 ft (485 m), 25 pitches, Grade III
FA: Various
Page Views: 2,414 total · 31/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

Named for the classic Royal Arches, Noble Arches attempts to approximate the amount and difficulty of climbing on its Yosemite namesake. Noble Arches links approximately 1600 feet of climbing over 25 pitches at an average grade of 5.6.

Noble Arches is great training for any long, moderate, route - just about anywhere. Completing it will require careful planning, efficient climbing and efficient changeovers. Be prepared for a long day of varied climbing. Aside from being a great training piece, Noble Arches will take you on a tour of some of the Lake's most classic routes, some of its obscure gems, and some its best grovels.

The linkup consists of the following 25 pitches:

01. Easy Overhang
02. F4 Ledges
03. Birch Tree Crack
04. The Pedestal (pitch 1)
05. The Pedestal (pitch 2)
06. The Spine
07. Boy Scout
08. Brinton's Crack
09. Berkeley
10. The Rack
11. The Grotto
12. Vacillation
13. Full Stop
14. Anemic Ladder
15. Peter's Project
16. Michael's Project
17. Horticulture
18. PushMi, Pull-Yu
19. Coatimundi Crack
20. False Alarm Jam
21. Double Overhang
22. Foreplay
23. Northwest Crack/Arete
24. The Pretzel
25. Charybdis

Location

The East Rampart...all of it.

Protection

Standard DL rack including nuts and cams up to #5 C4, doubles of C4's 1-3 are nice to have.

Strategy

Start Early and do not be concerned with doing the pitches in order (skip around to avoid congestion as needed).

01. Do Easy Overhang and walk off.
02. Do F4 Ledges, belay from an anchor acceptable for Birch Tree Crack and rappel from that anchor.
03. Do Birch Tree Crack, belay from existing anchor and rappel from existing anchor.
04. Do both pitches of The Pedestal, clean the anchor at the top of Birch Tree Crack, set new rappel anchor above The Spine and rappel.
05. Do The Spine and rappel.
06. Do Boy Scout and rappel.
07. Do Brinton's Crack and rappel.
08. Do Berkeley, move the rappel anchor to near the top of The Grotto and rappel.
09. Do The Rack and rappel.
10. Do The Grotto and rappel.
11. Do Vacillation and rappel.
12. Do Full Stop, move the rappel line to the top of Peter's Project and Anemic Ladder, then rappel.
13. Do Anemic Ladder, belay from existing anchor and rappel.
14. Do Peter's Project, belay from existing anchor and rappel.
15. Do Michael's Project, move rappel to gully separating Bill's Buttress and Moldy Buttress, and rappel.
16. Do Horticulture and rappel.
17. Do PushMi, Pull-Yu and rappel.
18. Do Coatimundi Crack and rappel.
19. Do False Alarm Jam, build anchor at the top of Double Overhang and rappel.
20. Do Double Overhang, tear down anchor, do the jump (sketchy) back to the main cliff, and get to the base of Foreplay via Leaning Tower Gully (LTG).
21. Do Foreplay and walk to the base of Northwest Crack/Arete on Leaning Tower.
22. Do Northwest Crack/Arete, get down from Leaning Tower and walk down LTG.
23. Do The Pretzel and walk down LTG.
24. Do Charybdis
25. Collect your rappel anchor from the gully between Bill's Buttress and Moldy Buttress and head to the car for your chosen refreshment.

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