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Routes in East Bluff Linkups

Astroboy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balanced Rock Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Massive Major Multi-Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Noble Arches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
North Shore Lunch Circuit V2 5+
Pseudo Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 1600 ft, 25 pitches, Grade III
FA: Various
Page Views: 1,677 total · 36/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Named for the classic Royal Arches, Noble Arches attempts to approximate the amount and difficulty of climbing on its Yosemite namesake. Noble Arches links approximately 1600 feet of climbing over 25 pitches at an average grade of 5.6.

Noble Arches is great training for any long, moderate, route - just about anywhere. Completing it will require careful planning, efficient climbing and efficient changeovers. Be prepared for a long day of varied climbing. Aside from being a great training piece, Noble Arches will take you on a tour of some of the Lake's most classic routes, some of its obscure gems, and some its best grovels.

The linkup consists of the following 25 pitches:

01. Easy Overhang
02. F4 Ledges
03. Birch Tree Crack
04. The Pedestal (pitch 1)
05. The Pedestal (pitch 2)
06. The Spine
07. Boy Scout
08. Brinton's Crack
09. Berkeley
10. The Rack
11. The Grotto
12. Vacillation
13. Full Stop
14. Anemic Ladder
15. Peter's Project
16. Michael's Project
17. Horticulture
18. PushMi, Pull-Yu
19. Coatimundi Crack
20. False Alarm Jam
21. Double Overhang
22. Foreplay
23. Northwest Crack/Arete
24. The Pretzel
25. Charybdis


The East Rampart...all of it.


Standard DL rack including nuts and cams up to #5 C4, doubles of C4's 1-3 are nice to have.


Start Early and do not be concerned with doing the pitches in order (skip around to avoid congestion as needed).

01. Do Easy Overhang and walk off.
02. Do F4 Ledges, belay from an anchor acceptable for Birch Tree Crack and rappel from that anchor.
03. Do Birch Tree Crack, belay from existing anchor and rappel from existing anchor.
04. Do both pitches of The Pedestal, clean the anchor at the top of Birch Tree Crack, set new rappel anchor above The Spine and rappel.
05. Do The Spine and rappel.
06. Do Boy Scout and rappel.
07. Do Brinton's Crack and rappel.
08. Do Berkeley, move the rappel anchor to near the top of The Grotto and rappel.
09. Do The Rack and rappel.
10. Do The Grotto and rappel.
11. Do Vacillation and rappel.
12. Do Full Stop, move the rappel line to the top of Peter's Project and Anemic Ladder, then rappel.
13. Do Anemic Ladder, belay from existing anchor and rappel.
14. Do Peter's Project, belay from existing anchor and rappel.
15. Do Michael's Project, move rappel to gully separating Bill's Buttress and Moldy Buttress, and rappel.
16. Do Horticulture and rappel.
17. Do PushMi, Pull-Yu and rappel.
18. Do Coatimundi Crack and rappel.
19. Do False Alarm Jam, build anchor at the top of Double Overhang and rappel.
20. Do Double Overhang, tear down anchor, do the jump (sketchy) back to the main cliff, and get to the base of Foreplay via Leaning Tower Gully (LTG).
21. Do Foreplay and walk to the base of Northwest Crack/Arete on Leaning Tower.
22. Do Northwest Crack/Arete, get down from Leaning Tower and walk down LTG.
23. Do The Pretzel and walk down LTG.
24. Do Charybdis
25. Collect your rappel anchor from the gully between Bill's Buttress and Moldy Buttress and head to the car for your chosen refreshment.


- No Photos -
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Matthew Clausen and I attempted this on 9/27/14. We got 21 pitches done (ended on Double Overhang) before darkness fell. If we would have had 30 more minutes of light we would have completed the linkup. We just didn't want to do Charybdis in the dark. It was a long day, and we missed some efficiencies, but we'll be better next time. Sep 29, 2014
Matthew Clausen    
It was a fun first attempt! I'm stoked to get back and complete it. One of the time inefficiencies was starting fast then feeling like we were well ahead of pace. I also started the day leading my first set of pitches too slowly, not feeling the urgency.

One thing I learned about the rappels: Bring the extra length of webbing to keep the master point for the rappel close to the edge so that I don't get tuckered out pulling the rappel rope with lots of drag between each pitch.

Another thing I noticed about myself: The more people who were around, the less focused I was on the clock and objective. I let myself get distracted catching up with people I knew, making new friends, and cracking jokes. I need to be more focused next time.

On sight leading Double Overhang by headlamp with just a sliver of moon was a good, low-pressure intro for me to night leading, however. Oct 4, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Looks like a fun linkup, and a really long day! I'm surprised the mid-cliff access gully wasn't used. Wouldn't that speed things up? Oct 6, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
The gully might speed things up, but I could only see it replacing limited number of raps. If you couldn't belay Peter's and Anemic ladder (and rap 3 times) from an anchor above Peter's it would save a ton, but that anchor is crucial.

Taking the gully down after doing Michael's and Horticulture might make sense, but then you only get two raps out of the rap anchor in the "Dark Corner" area. I think bringing a single 40 meter lead line, and a 30 meter rap line might be a more effective answer. We spent a lot of time coiling and flaking my 70 meter, not to mention pulling the rap line... Oct 6, 2014
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I guess I've done 4-5 20 pitch (or more) days by now. The first time, we were a party of three, did no raps, and finished in 10 hours at an average grade of 5.65.

My first bit of advice for someone who wants a big day is: have a strategy, like James and Matthew! Usually that means, have some sort of list. Second piece of advice, don't dawdle on the transitions, as Matthew says. Third piece of advice, use a 60m half-rope, and double it over, otherwise you end up hauling up 600m or more of rope you didn't need. If you are going to rap, fix a 60 in the middle of the rope and both of you rap on separate strands at the same time (not quite a simul rap). Finally, there is trade off between climbing for volume and climbing for difficulty: put a serious limit on how many hard pitches you are going to try if you are after volume. Note that "Astroboy" (which is frickin' hard to do) is 10 pitches, not 20. Oct 7, 2014
Ben Smith
Sunnyvale, CA
Ben Smith   Sunnyvale, CA
Knocked out this linkup on Easter Sunday with DuWayne Effland. Total time: 12.5hrs (first to last pitch, not car-to-car). We used only 2 rap stations, 1 climbing pack, and no simul-climbing or soloing. This time could be significantly reduced. Make it so!

A big thanks to James for putting together this linkup. Its an excellent tour of the rampart and a great way to build stamina and mental strength. Had a ball. Apr 8, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Glad you enjoyed it! Apr 13, 2015
EB   Winona
The big goal is 50 routes in a day. I have been working on the logistics and have a solid plan. I did 28 routes in 5 hours last summer and feel with the right combo of light crowds, good weather and the right partner 50 is totally doableĀ… For history sake, what is the most ground up routes climbed in a day at DL? May 22, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
I'm not sure what the record is, but 28 would have to be close. I've been trying to goad a partner into 100 routes in 48 hours (a weekend), been told it's impossible - I don't agree. If 50 in a day is possible, 100 in 2 days ought to be in the realm... May 22, 2015
100 in a weekend seems doable for sure... May 22, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
I'm up for trying...the summer solstice is coming up soon. May 22, 2015
EB   Winona
Had an off the off the couch day(first day of the year trad climbing) of 30 routes with Ben Mahaffey couple of weekends ago. Learned more about the 50 or even 100: nutrition and fitness are essential. We started off great with 10 routes in by 8:30 with a 6:45 am start. Having a morning midday and early evening meal/ good calories is a good idea. 50 in a day would be rad and 100 in a weekend HUGE! May 26, 2016
Ben Smith
Sunnyvale, CA
Ben Smith   Sunnyvale, CA
Completed with Stew K . New low time is 9:10 from route 1 to route 25. Solo'd one pitch. Cold conditions made for fast, secure climbing and not much gear placement.

This is my favorite thing to do with a day at the Lake. Nov 14, 2016
EB   Winona
Did many of these routes this weekend with a finishing total of leading 42 routes as part of my birthday challenge in just under 14hrs. Who will be the first to lead 50 in a day or 100 in a weekend? Oct 2, 2017

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