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Routes in (8) Old School Wall

Big Dipper T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bulge, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flayel Bop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jack the Ripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Dipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mountaineer's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outshined T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandora's Box S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pisa T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Piton Variation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Queasy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ripper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Cage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing Ovation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stigmata T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Topher Dabrowski/Benjamin Grandy
Page Views: 724 total, 19/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Sep 30, 2014 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up Ripper (5.9) and once on the ledge, there is a very short crack to your left. Continue up the crack to the next ledge and place a cam under the large boulder. Stem up and on top of the boulders to start up the steeper wall with good holds and 4 bolts. This route shares top anchors with Orion.

Protection

Mixed route with gear to 1.25" and 4 bolts.

Photos

Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
  5.10+ PG13
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
  5.10+ PG13
The newly extended route makes for a cool direct line with minimal rope drag from Ripper. You can definitely link ripper into Jack the Ripper to the top anchor with a 70m.

I'd agree with the 10b rating to the Orion ledge. However I'm pretty sure the top section (which is currently quite dirty) is slightly harder than Orion. Maybe it was just the dirt...

I'm giving this PG13 because I don't like how high the first bolt is on the top sport section. The Orion anchor is way too far off to the side to use it with any length sling, and the first bolt is a good 15 feet above a ledge. Having just climbed this a second time, there is a pretty good #1 BD placement on the ledge in a vertical crack between embedded boulders (cam only fits facing one way). It's still scary climbing the loose-looking holds to get to that first bolt above the ledge (a 5.8 move I'd say).

Worth doing.

Aug 14, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
 
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
 
Great route, Offset nuts aren't needed, as it protects quite well with a standard rack May 21, 2016
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10b
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10b
This route used to stop at the second ledge/belay for Orion and was called Full Jack, Ben & I put that up on June 14, 2014. Then on 5.16.2016 I added 4 bolts and pushed the line to the finish at Orion's top anchors and called it Jack The Ripper.

BD 0.3-1.0 cams & Offset Nuts May 17, 2016