Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Topher Dabrowski/Benjamin Grandy
Page Views: 833 total · 16/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Sep 30, 2014 with updates from Topher Dabrowski
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Climb up Ripper (5.9) and once on the ledge, there is a very short crack to your left. Continue up the crack to the next ledge and place a cam under the large boulder. Stem up and on top of the boulders to start up the steeper wall with good holds and 4 bolts. This route shares top anchors with Orion.


Mixed route with gear to 1.25" and 4 bolts.


Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
This route used to stop at the second ledge/belay for Orion and was called Full Jack, Ben & I put that up on June 14, 2014. Then on 5.16.2016 I added 4 bolts and pushed the line to the finish at Orion's top anchors and called it Jack The Ripper.

BD 0.3-1.0 cams & Offset Nuts May 17, 2016
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Great route, Offset nuts aren't needed, as it protects quite well with a standard rack May 21, 2016
Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
  5.10+ PG13
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
  5.10+ PG13
The newly extended route makes for a cool direct line with minimal rope drag from Ripper. You can definitely link ripper into Jack the Ripper to the top anchor with a 70m.

I'd agree with the 10b rating to the Orion ledge. However I'm pretty sure the top section (which is currently quite dirty) is slightly harder than Orion. Maybe it was just the dirt...

I'm giving this PG13 because I don't like how high the first bolt is on the top sport section. The Orion anchor is way too far off to the side to use it with any length sling, and the first bolt is a good 15 feet above a ledge. Having just climbed this a second time, there is a pretty good #1 BD placement on the ledge in a vertical crack between embedded boulders (cam only fits facing one way). It's still scary climbing the loose-looking holds to get to that first bolt above the ledge (a 5.8 move I'd say).

Worth doing.

Aug 14, 2016