Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: 1984 Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson
Page Views: 553 total · 5/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Sep 1, 2009 with updates from Topher Dabrowski
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


64 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This finger crack follows a dihedral up to the crux bulge and then opens up to chains on your right side. Can be continued directly up Jack The Ripper(5.10b) (crack on left) or "Piton Variation"(10+)(Dihedral on right) to the Orion ledge. You can also step right and walk up the final blocks of Little Dipper to the same anchor.

Location

This route can be found at the top of the hill just left of Mordor just right of Stigmata on the old school wall. Look for a well chalked finger crack in a dihedral. There should be a medium sized tree just a few feet left of the start.

Protection

Pro to 2". new chains at the top.

Photos

Obi
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.8+
The 5 foot pillar at the start of the climb, the top of which serves as a convenient starting hand and eventual foothold, is very loose. Be very mindful if you're using it. Alternate starts are possible, and I'm fairly certain they don't add a whole lot to the grade. Jun 9, 2014
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.8+
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.8+
Best finger crack at Ozone for sure. Too bad its so short. It can be lead with one medium nut and one or two finger to medium size cams. Then extend it to the Orion Belay anchors by going up Jack the Ripper (10b) or Piton Variation. Oct 2, 2014