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Routes in (8) Old School Wall

Big Dipper T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bulge, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flayel Bop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jack the Ripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Dipper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineer's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outshined T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandora's Box S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pisa T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Piton Variation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Queasy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ripper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Cage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing Ovation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stigmata T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: 1984 Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson
Page Views: 403 total · 4/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Sep 1, 2009 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This finger crack follows a dihedral up to the crux bulge and then opens up to chains on your right side. Can be continued directly up Jack The Ripper(5.10b) (crack on left) or "Piton Variation"(10+)(Dihedral on right) to the Orion ledge. You can also step right and walk up the final blocks of Little Dipper to the same anchor.

Location

This route can be found at the top of the hill just left of Mordor just right of Stigmata on the old school wall. Look for a well chalked finger crack in a dihedral. There should be a medium sized tree just a few feet left of the start.

Protection

Pro to 2". new chains at the top.

Photos

Obi
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.8+
The 5 foot pillar at the start of the climb, the top of which serves as a convenient starting hand and eventual foothold, is very loose. Be very mindful if you're using it. Alternate starts are possible, and I'm fairly certain they don't add a whole lot to the grade. Jun 9, 2014
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.8+
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.8+
Best finger crack at Ozone for sure. Too bad its so short. It can be lead with one medium nut and one or two finger to medium size cams. Then extend it to the Orion Belay anchors by going up Jack the Ripper (10b) or Piton Variation. Oct 2, 2014

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