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Routes in (8) Old School Wall

Big Dipper T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bulge, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flayel Bop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jack the Ripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Dipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mountaineer's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outshined T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandora's Box S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pisa T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Piton Variation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Queasy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ripper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Cage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing Ovation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stigmata T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 362 total, 9/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Sep 30, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Climb Ripper up to the ledge, and up and right you will see a clean dihedral with an old piton. Work up to the piton, and clip it, and then do a heel-hook and throw to the good jug. Make sure your partner has you on a pretty tight belay to make sure you don't hit the ledge below.

Protection

one piton. You can sneak in a blind medium offset nut if you know exactly where to place it while reaching above the crux. Or just climb up Full Jack, which easily protects.

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Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
It's too bad this climb is so hard to protect - the one move is really fun and not even that hard. It's also perfectly positioned to link Ripper into Orion with minimal drag. One single bolt would enable a lot more people to get to and enjoy Orion, especially since Ripper is pretty easy and protects very well.

With gear, you might be able to get a tiny nut in just under the good handhold before you make the throw to the crux, but it'd be questionable.

I spent some more time looking at the blind nut placement Topher mentions - it's *really* solid. A gray #10 BD nut with curved side on the right is an absolutely perfect placement. I haven't tried yet, but I suspect you could actually get the thing in reaching high around the corner from the good jug at the crux. There's only one slot where it will fit - if it slides into in and down and sticks, it should be good to go. I'm going to try this on lead next time... Aug 14, 2016
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10c R
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10c R
To save a broken ankle you can pre-place a #10 BD nut or similar in the hidden pod above the crux and leave a quick draw on it. Do this by rapping down after climbing Jack The Ripper. The piton does little to keep you off the ledge given the amount of rope out and the position of the crux; otherwise go for the move and make sure you stick it. Apr 14, 2015