Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FFA May 2006 Kevin Evansen, Michael Kilbury
Page Views: 2,305 total · 25/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Jul 1, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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This fun climb involves mostly face climbing past several overlaps on the right-hand side of the Old-School wall. Keeping near the bolt line is key to full enjoyment of this route as the gullies/broken rock on each side are dirty and moss-covered.


Right side of the Old-School wall, just before turning the corner into the New School / Mordor area. It starts below a large obvious flake.


7 Quickdraws. It is safe and well-protected, although some folks might like to put a cam in somewhere behind the large flake at the bottom to protect the slight run-out to the first bolt.


Oh well. Tim and I have spoken about this. He changed more than one of the grades from what the FA gave it which is reflected in the 2008 Ozone guide. If you have any questions about original grades vs the new 4th edition grade, please dont hesitate to ask. Aug 25, 2011
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
This route is a typical Ozone cruise up steep jugs with ledges breaking up the consistency. It's a fun route. There are some moves - starting up the right side of the flake, balancing across the face to the sidepull, pulling through the overhang at the end - but there are also huge ledges where you could chill and have a picnic if you wanted. This goes for most Ozone routes <5.10.

You can cut left before the last two bolts to anchors for Ripper and Little Dipper. This will set you up to do the sweetness that is Orion.

You would need some big gear (5") to go up the right side, which is fun, or you could just plug a 3-4" cam on top of the flake with a runner. But by that point you might as well just stand up and clip the bolt. Aug 10, 2013
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
I'm not sure why this route has been downgraded to 5.9. I climbed it again today and feel as though it's an obvious step above other 5.9s in the same area and harder than a few of the 5.10a's.

Maybe there is some sneaky beta to make it easier? I'll run it again one soon and try to look for it... Aug 3, 2016
This route has always been graded 5.9. I know I put it up. Then Tim Olson who wrote the newest guide book up graded it without asking the FA....me. So the final grade agreed or not is 5.9. Have a great day. Aug 11, 2016
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
While I agree that this route is 5.9, I personally believe that the FA's grade is simply their suggestion, nothing more. If the majority of the community disagrees with an FA's suggested grade, I don't think there should be an issue with a change being made. Just IMO. Aug 11, 2016
A Climber
  5.9+ R
A Climber  
  5.9+ R
Despite what the description says, this climb is neither well-bolted nor safe. There is considerable runout above large ledges (a very bad combination). A fall could easily result in serious injury. The more difficult sections of the climb are not any better protected than the easy parts, and some of them are also above the aforementioned large ledges. I would avoid this one if you think that there is any chance that you might fall.

This is without even taking into account the first bolt, which is 30 feet off the deck or so. Definitely plan on protecting the part below the first bolt if you do decide to climb this.

This could be a nice route if it were better protected. Sep 23, 2018