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Routes in The Heap

Approach 4.0 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Call Me Barney T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Egg Crack, The 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
Eliminate Inversion Adventure, The T V7 7A+
Haas Offwidth 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5
Live and Let Live T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Clone Sleeps Alone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Repoman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rookie, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Spectreman T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storm Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wicked T V12 8A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Michael Friedrichs and Sean Bradley, 1988
Page Views: 495 total, 13/month
Shared By: Drew Thayer on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is the right-facing corner just left of Spectreman. It is an attractive line, if you climb the grade you'll want to climb it. This gets a 5.11c grade in the Kelman book and an intimidating 5.12b PG-13 in the Orenczak book; quite a discrepancy. I figured I'd give it a go and find out for myself, the gear is a bit tricky, but it protects well and has a sustained crux that keeps you fully engaged for a few body-lengths. It is no gimme and has fun movement.

As to the grade discrepancy, .11c seems a little mean sitting right next to Spectreman, but there's no way this is .12b, or PG-13 rated. In all fairness, I'd reckon Spectreman is .11a and Repoman deserves a stout .11+.

Location

Just left of Spectreman, it is the alluring, right-facing corner.

Protection

C3s, Aliens, and Camalots to #1. There are two sets of anchors, it's obvious which one is more modern.

Photos

Moritz B.
  5.12a PG13
Moritz B.  
  5.12a PG13
Bring 2 #1s. The gear higher up is a little tricky to place due to the flaring nature of the rock. Bottom line is you will climb on an "okay-so so" piece that is backed up by a solid piece, if that made any sense. Oct 12, 2015