Avg: 3.3 from 11 votes
Routes in The Heap
|Approach 4.0 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Call Me Barney T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Egg Crack, The 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4|
|Eliminate Inversion Adventure, The T V7 7A+|
|Haas Offwidth 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5|
|Live and Let Live T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|My Clone Sleeps Alone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Repoman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Rookie, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Spectreman T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Storm Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Wicked T V12 8A+|
|Type:||Trad, 30 ft|
|FA:||Maurice Reed, Bobby Rotert 1983|
|Page Views:||1,896 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Taylor Roy on Jun 16, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionWith enough pads The Rookie could probably be bouldered. However, doing the moves is only half the experience. The other half involves wondering if the small cams and wires that you have placed are going to keep you off the ground if you fall at the crux.
Start by pulling over a small roof, grabbing some interesting face holds and carefully placing the your first pieces. Once you are ready, move past your gear, and into the crux which involves powerful moves between flaring finger locks. Keep moving until you reach the next "good" lock about 6 feet above your gear. Throw something in, make a few more bizarre, yet easy moves into the groove and clip the chains.
Excellent rock, great moves, nice mental challenge, but a bit too short to get four stars. Definitely recommended.
Location20 yards to the left of the SpectreMan, The Rookie is a short finger crack with a large boulder at the base and a funky flake hanging off the wall near the chains.
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