Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Heap

Approach 4.0 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Call Me Barney T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Egg Crack, The 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
Eliminate Inversion Adventure, The T V7 7A+
Haas Offwidth 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5
Live and Let Live T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Clone Sleeps Alone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Repoman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rookie, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Spectreman T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storm Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wicked T V12 8A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Maurice Reed, Bobby Rotert 1983
Page Views: 1,896 total, 16/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

With enough pads The Rookie could probably be bouldered. However, doing the moves is only half the experience. The other half involves wondering if the small cams and wires that you have placed are going to keep you off the ground if you fall at the crux.

Start by pulling over a small roof, grabbing some interesting face holds and carefully placing the your first pieces. Once you are ready, move past your gear, and into the crux which involves powerful moves between flaring finger locks. Keep moving until you reach the next "good" lock about 6 feet above your gear. Throw something in, make a few more bizarre, yet easy moves into the groove and clip the chains.

Excellent rock, great moves, nice mental challenge, but a bit too short to get four stars. Definitely recommended.

Location

20 yards to the left of the SpectreMan, The Rookie is a short finger crack with a large boulder at the base and a funky flake hanging off the wall near the chains.

Protection

The gear is a little sparse, but very good. Bring small cams and nuts. You can also bring some midsized cams for the flare at the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
A creative chimney/head scum off a flake at the top is helpful for slowly eaking out the upper section. Just sitting here at work, picking the scabs out of my hair. Only one or so hard moves, but the moment you move up on that fingerlock, it feels like your hand is going to come flying out and smack you in the face. Classic Vedauwoo. Jul 6, 2009
JNE
  5.12-
JNE  
  5.12-
I agree with HBW, the gear on this one is adequately spaced and definitely bomber. I spent a couple hours one day falling off this, so I know the crux piece is good and will keep you off the ground well enough. Also, the movement on this thing is interesting and excellent.

Lots of stuff is like this at Vedauwoo. It's on you right away so your dealing with the ground. Jun 25, 2008
Very stiff line, but in no way shape or form does this climb warrant a pg grade. You can get bomber gear almost anywhere you want it. Jun 21, 2008