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Routes in The Heap

Approach 4.0 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Call Me Barney T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Egg Crack, The 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
Eliminate Inversion Adventure, The T V7 7A+
Haas Offwidth 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5
Live and Let Live T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Clone Sleeps Alone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Repoman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rookie, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Spectreman T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storm Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wicked T V12 8A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 109 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 12, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is an interesting climb in an odd position. It has good rock and good protection to a fixed anchor. This would be a reasonable lead for a beginning trad leader.

After approaching the upper tier via the approach pitch, walk Eastward past "My Clone...", "Real Men...", and "Storm Watch". A leaning pillar just past these obscures a tight, right-facing corner with a clean crack in it. Climb up this cave/corner/chimney exiting though a wide slot up top (not a squeeze) and head right onto a ledge. Head back left (3-4" cam for protection) onto a ledge formed by the top of the pillar that created the cave, and then up the easy slab above this (5.3 move with no pro above the ledge) to a bolt-and chain anchor. Belay here then rap off to the climber's left of the pillar.

Location

This route is on the upper tier of the South Face of The Heap, obscured behind a leaning pillar.

Protection

Mostly cams from 1-3.5" and a few longer slings.

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