Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Scott Blunk
Page Views: 2,868 total · 18/month
Shared By: slim on Jul 14, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

Location

This route is about 100 feet left of 'Spectreman'. There are 2 steep finger cracks here. 'The Rookie, 12a' is on the right, 'Barney' is on the left (immediately to the right of the overhanging blocky/dikey sport route 'Mystery Blocks aka Country Swing'.

Description

This is your typical ultrabrutal Scott Blunk route (whatever happend to this guy anyway?). This route is right up there with 'big pink' on the Vedauwoo can-you-say-the-grade-with-a-straight-face meter.

Just right of the route Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks is a shallow, hanging corner/seam, that heads up to a really nice finger crack flake sort of thing. There are 2 ways to start:

A) start directly up the corner. At first glance it looks like the protection will be terrible, but you can get a couple really good nuts in. At first, you will be worried about them plugging up your fingerlocks, but rest assured, there is no way in hell you are going to get your fingers in there. Desperately try like hell to finagle your way up to the shallow flared jam or:

B) start up Mystery Blocks and clip the first bolt on that route. Then perform a balancy traverse to the right to get to the shallow flared jam. The bolt will barely keep you from cratering and braking your ankles, but falling is still not really advised here.

Great, so now we get to the good stuff. Launch up into the finger crack above. there are some great jams, but the crack is very overhanging, leaning, and it is hard to incorporate the feet into the gig. PHYSICAL!

Protection

Small wires for start, a couple off-fingers to thin hands, several finger sized cams (#0.3 and 0.4 Camalots work well).

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