Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in The Heap
|
Approach 4.0 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
Call Me Barney T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Egg Crack, The 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4 |
|
|
Eliminate Inversion Adventure, The T V7 7A+ |
|
|
Haas Offwidth 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5 |
|
|
Live and Let Live T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
My Clone Sleeps Alone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Repoman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Rookie, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Spectreman T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Storm Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Wicked T V12 8A+ |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Scott Blunk |
| Page Views: | 3,105 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Jul 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
Location
This route is about 100 feet left of 'Spectreman'. There are 2 steep finger cracks here. 'The Rookie, 12a' is on the right, 'Barney' is on the left (immediately to the right of the overhanging blocky/dikey sport route 'Mystery Blocks aka Country Swing'.
Description
This is your typical ultrabrutal Scott Blunk route (whatever happend to this guy anyway?). This route is right up there with 'big pink' on the Vedauwoo can-you-say-the-grade-with-a-straight-face meter.
Just right of the route Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks is a shallow, hanging corner/seam, that heads up to a really nice finger crack flake sort of thing. There are 2 ways to start:
A) start directly up the corner. At first glance it looks like the protection will be terrible, but you can get a couple really good nuts in. At first, you will be worried about them plugging up your fingerlocks, but rest assured, there is no way in hell you are going to get your fingers in there. Desperately try like hell to finagle your way up to the shallow flared jam or:
B) start up Mystery Blocks and clip the first bolt on that route. Then perform a balancy traverse to the right to get to the shallow flared jam. The bolt will barely keep you from cratering and braking your ankles, but falling is still not really advised here.
Great, so now we get to the good stuff. Launch up into the finger crack above. there are some great jams, but the crack is very overhanging, leaning, and it is hard to incorporate the feet into the gig. PHYSICAL!
Just right of the route Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks is a shallow, hanging corner/seam, that heads up to a really nice finger crack flake sort of thing. There are 2 ways to start:
A) start directly up the corner. At first glance it looks like the protection will be terrible, but you can get a couple really good nuts in. At first, you will be worried about them plugging up your fingerlocks, but rest assured, there is no way in hell you are going to get your fingers in there. Desperately try like hell to finagle your way up to the shallow flared jam or:
B) start up Mystery Blocks and clip the first bolt on that route. Then perform a balancy traverse to the right to get to the shallow flared jam. The bolt will barely keep you from cratering and braking your ankles, but falling is still not really advised here.
Great, so now we get to the good stuff. Launch up into the finger crack above. there are some great jams, but the crack is very overhanging, leaning, and it is hard to incorporate the feet into the gig. PHYSICAL!
Photos
- No Photos -
8 Comments