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Routes in The Heap

Approach 4.0 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Call Me Barney T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Egg Crack, The 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
Eliminate Inversion Adventure, The T V7 7A+
Haas Offwidth 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5
Live and Let Live T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Clone Sleeps Alone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Repoman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rookie, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Spectreman T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storm Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wicked T V12 8A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,071 total, 8/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Sep 28, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a slightly flared, hand crack in a right-facing dihedral. Belay on top. Walk towards Spectreman area and make two raps to the base of Spectreman.

Location

This route is located on the left side of "The Heap" as described in Kellman's book. We climbed "Approach 4.0" to access this area. If using Approach 4.0, this is the first crack you will come to. It is in very prominent, right-facing dihedral with a 5-foot block at the base.

Protection

#0.75 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, #2 Friend, #1 Camalot, couple of #3 Camalots (or similar) for anchor/top section.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
The book calls this a hand-crack. I might have had a jam or two a few times, but this thing had more 1.25-1.5" cam placements than 2+" cam placements. I had more finger-locks than hand-jams. It is also easier than a lot of area 9s, or for that matter, easier than the 5.8 "approach pitch." Jun 12, 2011