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Routes in The Heap

Approach 4.0 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Call Me Barney T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Egg Crack, The 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
Eliminate Inversion Adventure, The T V7 7A+
Haas Offwidth 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5
Live and Let Live T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Clone Sleeps Alone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Repoman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rookie, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Spectreman T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storm Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wicked T V12 8A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Doug Cairns, John Mattson, 1980
Page Views: 248 total, 2/month
Shared By: Brian Weinstein on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Itching for some more handcracks after ticking Spectreman? Check out the upper tier of The Heap (South Face). This is a great pitch of thin hands to layback fingers to a wide crux exit. Belay/rap at the anchors atop the formation.

Location

Climb any of the pitches on the lower tier (Approach, Country Swing, Call Me Barney) to access the upper tier where there are a couple handcracks along with a chimney and fingercrack.

Protection

Thin hands and some fingers (i.e., #0.4 Camalot or orange TCU through #2.5 Friend, etc..) I only placed 1 #2 Camalot size above the crux, ... not needed.

Photos

climber73
Fort Collins, CO
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
Great pitch, and great warmup for Spectreman.

Take a nut and place it in the crack at the top to keep the rope out of the crack where the crack kicks back and transitions to lower angle slab. The crack is perfect rope size here. I fell seconding and wedged the rope into the crack. Could not pull the rope from the top and was too far down to free from the bottom. We were able to self rescue, but it took some time away from the other climbs we wanted to do. Aug 9, 2009