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Routes in Torre Grande, North Summit

"Normalweg " "Via Normale." T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face "Via Finlandia" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Northwest Corner and North Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 530 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: G. Ghedina, et. al., 1880
Page Views: 145 total · 4/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Sep 24, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This route is historically the easiest and enjoyable way of reaching the North Summit. The route finding is somewhat indirect, but it shares the same first pitches with the Normale or "Nuvolau Weg" to the South Summit. Pitch 1 follows a gully system trending towards climber's left, passing some iron rods or "pegs" and to a belay stance. Cemented piton or ring anchor. Squeeze under the enormous chockstone to easy climbing (5.2/5.3) to another fixed anchor. Some climbing in coils or steep scrambling take one to a ledge with a Memorial Plaque, and a short downclimb to a terrace. Climbb through and around some large chockstones in the gully to a 20 foot section of fixed rope leading to climber's left, into the "Labyrinth" of chockstones. Tunnel under one enormous chockstone to arrive at another belay. From here, 2 more short leads up a slab and through gully/dihedral/chimneys to the summit.
Abseil and down climb the route.

Location

From Rifugio Scoiattoli, the gravel path leads almost directly to the West Summit of the Torre Grande; a climber's path circles left to the gap between towers and the starting point for the climb.

Protection

All fixed protection, a fixed line traverse, and cemented anchors. Bring a light rack with runners and quickdraws for safety.

Photos

This climb is popular with beginners and has been climbed frequently by families with children. Not terribly aesthetic, but achieves a worthwhile summit by easy technical climbing. Sep 24, 2014