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Normal Route
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Punta Delle Cinque Dita
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Cobra and Guglia Cristiana S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fünffingerspitzen Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Normal Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Thumb, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Via Amerigo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Via Sonia (Spigolo Ovest) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 11 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 46.5237, 11.73494 |
| FA: | L. Bernard, and companions |
| Page Views: | 1,231 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Rodger Raubach on Sep 23, 2014 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
Description
The route starts on the North side of the mountain relative to the Toni Demetz Hut. A chimney defines the start. Climbing right of the chimney, four pitches of easy 5th class or UIAA III+(~5.4) surmount the initial wall, and lead to a large boulder and scree covered ramp leading up and climber's left. The ramp is ~ 300 feet of roped scrambing, normally done climbing in coils, UIAA Gr. I & II. The route now heads into the Daumanscharte, or notch between the main peak and the Thumb for 2 leads. Cemented anchors. The route becomes steeper with plentiful holds and great exposure. It skirts the "Zeigefinger" or index finger into a notch, from which 2 more leads arrive on the "Mittefinger," or middle finger summit.
Location
The start is reached either by a long and steep trudge from the Sella Pass Sassalungo lift station, or by riding the Gondolbahn to Langkofelscharte. Pass the Toni Demetz refuge and contour around the mountain to the queue waiting for the route.
To descend, abseil the route, downclimbing the slabby section.
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