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Normal Route

5.4, Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 11 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
FA: L. Bernard, and companions
International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Sassolungo (Lan… > Punta Delle Cinque Dita

Description

The route starts on the North side of the mountain relative to the Toni Demetz Hut. A chimney defines the start. Climbing right of the chimney, four pitches of easy 5th class or UIAA III+(~5.4) surmount the initial wall, and lead to a large boulder and scree covered ramp leading up and climber's left. The ramp is ~ 300 feet of roped scrambing, normally done climbing in coils, UIAA Gr. I & II. The route now heads into the Daumanscharte, or notch between the main peak and the Thumb for 2 leads. Cemented anchors. The route becomes steeper with plentiful holds and great exposure. It skirts the "Zeigefinger" or index finger into a notch, from which 2 more leads arrive on the "Mittefinger," or middle finger summit.

Location

The start is reached either by a long and steep trudge from the Sella Pass Sassalungo lift station, or by riding the Gondolbahn to Langkofelscharte. Pass the Toni Demetz refuge and contour around the mountain to the queue waiting for the route.
To descend, abseil the route, downclimbing the slabby section.

Protection

All protection is fixed; cemented ring bolt anchors in place. Take slings and quickdraws and a light Alpine rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Fuenffingerspitze from Sella Pass.
[Hide Photo] The Fuenffingerspitze from Sella Pass.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
  5.4
[Hide Comment] This is a very popular and heavily travelled climb. Steep and spectacular, but not difficult. Just a long day in the mountains... Sep 23, 2014
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
  5.4
[Hide Comment] This is a favorite with the mountain guides, and is used as an introductory climb after their climbing classes. Feb 12, 2017