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Routes in 5 Mile Boulders

Arete V0 4
Baldy V4 6B
Big Mouth V1+ 5
Butt Trumpet V8 7B
Caress V2+ 5+
Cheese Whiz Stand Start V2 5+
Draw V4 6B
Green Face V3 6A
Knob, The V3 6A
Kung Fu V6 7A
Mr Smiley V6 7A
Sharpie V1 5
Slabmaster V1 5
Smiley Right V4 6B
Surfboard V4 6B
Surfboard Sit Start V4 6B
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 978 total, 25/month
Shared By: Tony Brengosz on Sep 17, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This problem is basically Baldy with bad beta, considering it starts and finishes in the same place, and all the holds on Baldy are within reach. That said, it's a very fun eliminant problem.

Start on the flat edge of Baldy, do the first move, then bust left to the crimp rail on the face. Avoid using the arete after the first move, and top out with the same cool mantle as Baldy.

Location

Arete on the back side of the Butt Trumpets boulder

Protection

Pad

Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Yeah, I never have done it like the video either. However, the moves that I feel really distinguish kung-fu, and what the video clearly shows, are those of the finishing mantle. I didn't intend to create any more confusion;) Sep 26, 2014
Like Nat says, I've always understood Kung Fu to avoid the arete entirely after the first move, which to me makes the most sense. Sep 24, 2014
Nat Smale
Salt Lake City, UT
  V6
Nat Smale   Salt Lake City, UT
  V6
Hmm,..., that doesn't look like what I thought was Kung Fu. The climber's right hand was on the arete the whole way up. I thought Kung Fu went left to the crimps much lower, and with both hands avoiding the upper part of the arete. Looks kinda like a mix between Kung Fu and Baldy. Still, an excellent variation! Sep 23, 2014
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
youtube.com/watch?v=yWi3-dC…

I should have been more clear- the mantle is quite a bit left, the finish higher up is on the left side of the arete. Sep 23, 2014
How far left is "quite a bit"? I topped out on the good crimps on the lip that are directly above the crimp rail on the face. That is also where I topped out Baldy though, so I guess I did Baldy wrong? Fun problem though, and definitely harder than Baldy. Sep 21, 2014
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Baldy sit starts the arete, and finishes at the top on the right side of said arete. Kung Fu shares the starting moves, then heads left on the overhanging side with the good crimp rails, finishing quite a bit left of the arete with an awkward, yet rewarding mantle. Much harder than Baldy... take 6 points for Kung Fu. Sep 20, 2014