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Routes in 5 Mile Boulders

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Surfboard Sit Start V4 6B
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,863 total, 24/month
Shared By: Kenny Clark on Jul 5, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start this problem with both hands on the right side of the crack with both feet on the left side. Getting the start and the next few moves seems to be the crux of the problem for most. The feet are getting polished, no doubt by all the traffic this problem sees.

The higher you go, the wider the crack gets: it gets easier to lieback the further away from the ground you get. There are some large holds on the right face that can be used as well once you get high enough. If you are tall enough, then you can reach the top from a standing position on one of those large holds, but if you want the full lieback experience, then stay in the crack until you top out.

Location

Located in the obvious off-width crack on the north-east side of of the Split Boulder.

Protection

There is a great flat landing for this problem.

Photos

Mark P Thomas
Draper
  V0-
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  V0-
If you climb it as an OW instead of a LB, I'd rate it proper 5.9 wide. Jun 4, 2017