Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Frederick Desgranges & Louis-Pierre Tessier 2009|
|Page Views:||444 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||PA Paquet on Aug 31, 2014|
- Must be a member of an organisation which has signed an agreement with the owner (presently the ACC May 2014)
- No construction of permanent structures.
- No cutting of trees unless absolutely required at the base, top and on the cliff only.
You will need one #6 Camalot to safely protect at the base of the 5.9 squeeze passage on pitch 3. If you attempt to double pitches 3 and 4, you may want to carry two #6, as pitch 4 is best done with a #6 as well.
P1 5.8 PG, 100 feet or slightly more. From the top of the fixed ropes used on the approach, spot a partly re-vegetated slab left of the obvious but always-wet corner. [The steep slab split by an obvious crack system on the right side of the wet corner is your start to the (harder) Examen final.] Climb to the left of first cedar tree to gain a ledge, take the shallow corner (cleanest) to a ramp trending leftward, passe another cedar tree (you may want to sling it), and immediately step over to your left on a ledge with a perfect crack to build your anchor.
P2 5.10, over 100 feet. Above the belay, step right using the horizontal crack. Dodge the roof moving right. Walk back left and follow the excellent cracks (fist and larger) to a bolted belay on a ledge with trees. Very airy ! Not easy at the grade.
P3 5.9 squeeze (fear the squeeze). From the bolted belay, go left across an unprotected slab (5.7 R). Follow another wide crack to its logical coronation, a 5.9 squeeze. From the PDF topo to the Gros Bonnet (which you should download:) "Be extra careful if you only have a #5. An experienced climber has decked out here after his #5 pulled out." Build you anchor as soon as you find a comfortable stance after the squeeze chimney but before the demanding fist pull that throws you into a dark alcove. If you enter the alcove and set your anchor there, be prepared to hang most uncomfortably in your harness for as long it will take.
P4, 5.9+. Pull the fist-crack into the alcove, out through a fun roof (your sights peering down into the valley below! #6 useful here again), and more V-shaped chimneys. Bolted belay.
You may want to go beyond the belay and to the next cedar tree (5-10 meters above and left, good ledge) if you plan on testing your abilities in the overhanging hand-crack above (Le Bureau du Directeur, 11+, HARD!). The "5.10 Finish" (most probably 5.11) goes through the blocky roof/corner beyond the slab right in front of you. There's a bolted belay on top as well. See separate route descriptions.
Descent: 2x 60m rappels will bring you back to the ground.