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Routes in (t) Kiss of the Lepers Buttress

Climb, The S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
First Kiss S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
French Kiss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Groove Thang S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emdse, 3/31/2002
Page Views: 912 total, 23/month
Shared By: Harrison on Aug 28, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Kiss of the Lepers Buttress Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

The best route on the wall and maybe one of the ten best at Smith Rock hides in the astounding water groove on the second pitch. You can try your luck on the rotten rock on the first pitch but most just aid it. Second pitch provides a unique rap, almost cave like. Great line of bolts runs past stems and a bulge crux(10d) to an overhang with great jugs and position, pull around to the anchors. Pitch three traverses left and up to a set of anchors( you can follow the bolt line at these anchors for Dreams that I Carry 10a, two pitches you end on the same anchors as the climb and first kiss) continue up to the right to another set of anchors on top of a block. Last pitch is the same as last pitch of first kiss. Note, watch the loose block at the top anchors!

Location

Kiss of the Lepers Area, Smith Rock
Start is to the left of First Kiss about 60 yards under the crappy roof
You can walk off, or better yet rap into the groove, its astounding!
The monkey is to your right, you can't miss it

Protection

P1:9
P2:10
P3:9
P4:14
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
The groove pitch is awesome and one of a kind! The first pitch is absolute garbage, with mandatory free moves on some of the worst rock I've seen at Smith before you can aid the last 4 or so bolts. It is easy to rap down to the bottom of the water groove with a 70m rope from the top of First Kiss and climb the amazing second pitch - maybe the best way to experience The Climb. Oct 4, 2016