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Routes in (t) Kiss of the Lepers Buttress
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Climb, The S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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First Kiss S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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French Kiss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Groove Thang S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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You're Tearing Me Richard! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emdse, 3/31/2002 |
| Page Views: | 2,696 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Harrison on Aug 28, 2014 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
The best route on the wall and maybe one of the ten best at Smith Rock hides in the astounding water groove on the second pitch. You can try your luck on the rotten rock on the first pitch but most just aid it. Second pitch provides a unique rap, almost cave like. Great line of bolts runs past stems and a bulge crux(10d) to an overhang with great jugs and position, pull around to the anchors. Pitch three traverses left and up to a set of anchors( you can follow the bolt line at these anchors for Dreams that I Carry 10a, two pitches you end on the same anchors as the climb and first kiss) continue up to the right to another set of anchors on top of a block. Last pitch is the same as last pitch of first kiss. Note, watch the loose block at the top anchors!
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