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Routes in (t) Kiss of the Lepers Buttress

Climb, The S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
First Kiss S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
French Kiss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Groove Thang S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,139 total · 31/month
Shared By: Sarah Holston on Mar 20, 2013 with updates from Topher Dabrowski
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Kiss of the Lepers Buttress Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

When Allen Watts says secretive, He means it. Looking for this route left me cursing Watts's name but when I found it at the top of a gully it was amazing. The bottom half of the route is stemming in a smoothed tube, similar feature as Hydrotube up at Flagstone. Great protection. The top is a pile. The top becomes the crux not because the moves are difficult but because I am not sure the bots could take a fall. Although the top is foreboding it is a must do route at Smith.

Location

Kiss of the Leaper Area. Go all the way up the hillside until you come to a gully. Go up the gully, make a few birthing jokes as you climb up a series of vag shaped holes and then look to your right. You may or may not see the bolts gleaming in the sun light. They are there, trust the good old guide book. Look for the tube and you will see the bolts.

Protection

long runner for a couple of the draws. 8 bots. fixed anchors

Photos

Andrew Child
Santa Clara
 
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
 
Super cool route. Worth checking out if you are in the area and want something more adventurous. The belay ledge is at the top of a ~12ft chimney with a massive chock stone stuck in it. Climbing the chimney isn't hard but it could be unnerving for a 5.8 climber since its unprotected. Sep 7, 2016
Nathaniel
Bellevue, WA
Nathaniel   Bellevue, WA
Finding the route is somewhat tricky. After passing First Kiss and then French Kiss, if you follow the next major wall up a rough and loose trail, it eventually feeds into a small series of ledges with a bush. Alternatively if you follow the wall from French Kiss up past The Climb, it eventually also reaches Groove Thang. Requires some mantling to reach the route, be careful on the descent. Mar 12, 2017
drmergurl Cornejo   Bend, OR
Fun adventure climb, wish there was a bolt to belay followers to the belay ledge. It looks like there are bolts past the chains that may lead to walk off? Anyone know? Sep 15, 2018
Excellent route and hidden gem of Smith. We did this because First Kiss was jammed on a nice fall morning. Climb two short chimneys up to the belay stance then start the sport route. The route has some excellent stemming and lots of holds. The anchors at the top can be hard to find and they're not visible from the last bolt. Go up a little and to the right (like you're climbing into the bowl) and peer around the corner/bulge - they're there. Lots of kitty litter and loose rock, especially on the ledges. Wear a helmet! You can use a 70m rope to rappel all the way down through the two short chimneys you climbed up to the belay stance. I highly recommend this as the downclimb would be sketchy... 3 days ago

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