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Early Access
Routes in (t) Kiss of the Lepers Buttress
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Climb, The S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0 |
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First Kiss S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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French Kiss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Groove Thang S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Expectations T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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You're Tearing Me Richard! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 44.37209, -121.14276 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 136 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Steiner on Jan 11, 2026 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
A fun, juggy, reasonably solid crack splits the face just right of the final pitch of First Kiss. If you, like me, thought the last pitch of First Kiss was the best and wanted to spend more time on that wall, this is the perfect opportunity for that.
From the final belay anchor on First Kiss, traverse right on jugs to gain a rightward-trending crack. Good jams and juggy pockets lead to a crux pod to gain the ledge. A final 10’ of mossy slab takes you to a rappel anchor. (This final slab is shared with another route called Guinness, which is fully bolted. As of January 2026, the bolts are hangerless, so the final slab is unprotected.)
While it’s possible to traverse left and finish the final pitch of First Kiss to the top, doing so would involve a bit of down climbing if pitching it out, or some serious rope drag if linking pitches. Rappelling back to the ledge and continuing up the last pitch of First Kiss or walking off the ledge to climber’s right is probably the move. There is a 5.9 second pitch to the top that is poorly protected and loose according to the Watts Guide.
This route hasn’t seen much traffic and hosts a decent amount of lichen. The crack is quite solid, but some of the face holds are still a bit flexy. Practice caution before your reef on the jugs.
Location
This route is technically located on the Hello Kitty Cliff, which comprises the upper wall of the KOTL buttress.
If climbing this as a single pitch, approach via misery ridge or the Mesa Verde trail. Locate the junction of the First Kiss walk off trail and the Mesa Verde trail. Follow the trail to the bench below the upper wall of the KOTL buttress. A few third class moves will get you to a comfy ledge where you can traverse to the base of the route.
If climbing as an addendum to First Kiss, traverse about 10’ right from the final belay anchor below pitch 5 to gain the crack. Rappel back to the ledge and continue up First Kiss to the top, or walk off right.
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