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Routes in Peanut Gallery, The

A Face in the Crowd T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bluff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolt Run S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Change UP T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coronoid Process T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eyes of Silver S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Finger Grafitti S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free Falling S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Heckler, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Ages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratchin' Nails TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shootout T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Tumbling Turmoil S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witchy Poo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Chris Baumann
Page Views: 144 total, 3/month
Shared By: DJ Reyes on Jun 15, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

On the left side of the NE wall. Climb 3 bolts to a crack.

Protection

Draws and trad gear for the crack.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
So I attempted to lead this route today and made it to the ramp after the second bolt. At that point there is a convenient escape ramp down and left and I succumbed to it's siren song. I then set up a toprope and realized that the remainder of the route was all there. If you can do the first move and get the first clip then the remainder of the route is well within your ability, though the second clip is a bit sketch....don't blow it. The 5.9 rating is fair, and there are a number of 5.9 sequences on the route which stays thoughtful the entire way up. There are a couple of bolts located at the top. Oct 29, 2017
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
I found this in guidebook and yeah, that is the route. I'll have to go back some day and double check it's 40' :) Apr 18, 2015
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Sergey, I believe you're thinking of the main Peanut Gallery area, technically, the southeast face. This route is located somewhat to the northeast of that area, but it is part of the same formation. Kind of an obscure wall, though clearly visible from the Roadcut parking area. Unlike the area you're thinking of I don't think the northeast face gets a lot of traffic. Mar 17, 2015
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
Is this the route that you get to (if I remember correctly) by getting to the first ledge that has anchors for some climb starting from the road, and then getting thru some bushes to get to the 2nd ledge with two bolt lines?
It matches very well, but I remember it being much taller than 40'
(I sport led something similar a year ago and still don't know what :)) Mar 17, 2015