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Routes in El Diablo Wall

Big G, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Body Count S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cop Killer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dead Souls S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
El Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gateway, The S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Half Acre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heck S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I'll Take Black S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Inferno S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Malvado S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Feller S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power Junkie S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Purgatory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
San Miguel S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Satanism and Sports S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Soul Fission S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
White Noise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Geoff Weigand
Page Views: 655 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jeremy Noring on Jun 11, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A power-endurance testpiece. A hard start leads to a bad rest on underclings, followed by continuously hard moves on bad slopers to the chains. Not difficult to do any of the moves individually; hard to put them all together.

Location

Just to the left of Cop Killer and the right of I'll Take Black.

Protection

bolts to fixed anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Ferralls, the grade mountain project shows *is* the consensus grade. If you've done the route and you think it's 14a, then grade it that. It's that simple.

When I did the route, there was general grumbling about it being 13c/d. I've seen recent mention of it just being 14a now (likely due to hold breakage, like you mention). That said, I have no skin in this game: I sent this route nearly two decades ago and I'm well aware of the ever-changing nature of AF climbing. It could be 14c for all I know. Dec 23, 2015
As long as everyone is afraid to be the first to say that it's 14a now (same with post-break dead souls), it will always be considered 14a in everyone's minds, but we will keep saying 13d to each other.
Jens always talked about the "brave downgrader" - it takes a lot more guts to upgrade. Cue the guy who pipes in to say "it isn't that hard": Dec 20, 2015
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Very possible; I did this route in the late 90s, and it's AF, so....likely harder than 13d at this point, not even counting the polish factor. May 22, 2015
Todd H
Sandy, UT
 
Todd H   Sandy, UT
 
A couple holds have broken over the years. I believe this may be harder than 13d now, or it's at least a little harder than it was before. May 17, 2015