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Routes in El Diablo Wall

Big G, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Body Count S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cop Killer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dead Souls S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
El Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gateway, The S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Half Acre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heck S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I'll Take Black S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Inferno S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Malvado S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Feller S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power Junkie S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Purgatory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
San Miguel S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Satanism and Sports S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Soul Fission S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
White Noise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport
FA: Geoff Weigand
Page Views: 830 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jeremy Noring on Jun 11, 2014 with updates from Todd H
Admins: Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description [Edit]

A power-endurance testpiece. A hard start leads to a bad rest on underclings, followed by continuously hard moves on bad slopers to the chains. Not difficult to do any of the moves individually; hard to put them all together.

Location [Edit]

Just to the right of Cop Killer and the left of I'll Take Black.

Protection [Edit]

bolts to fixed anchors.

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Todd H
Sandy, UT
 
Todd H   Sandy, UT
 
A couple holds have broken over the years. I believe this may be harder than 13d now, or it's at least a little harder than it was before. May 17, 2015
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Very possible; I did this route in the late 90s, and it's AF, so....likely harder than 13d at this point, not even counting the polish factor. May 22, 2015
As long as everyone is afraid to be the first to say that it's 14a now (same with post-break dead souls), it will always be considered 14a in everyone's minds, but we will keep saying 13d to each other.
Jens always talked about the "brave downgrader" - it takes a lot more guts to upgrade. Cue the guy who pipes in to say "it isn't that hard": Dec 20, 2015
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Ferralls, the grade mountain project shows *is* the consensus grade. If you've done the route and you think it's 14a, then grade it that. It's that simple.

When I did the route, there was general grumbling about it being 13c/d. I've seen recent mention of it just being 14a now (likely due to hold breakage, like you mention). That said, I have no skin in this game: I sent this route nearly two decades ago and I'm well aware of the ever-changing nature of AF climbing. It could be 14c for all I know. Dec 23, 2015

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