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Routes in El Diablo Wall

Big G, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Body Count S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cop Killer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dead Souls S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
El Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gateway, The S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Half Acre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heck S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I'll Take Black S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Inferno S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Malvado S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Feller S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power Junkie S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Purgatory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
San Miguel S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Satanism and Sports S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Soul Fission S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
White Noise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Pedersen (unknown date)
Page Views: 807 total, 12/month
Shared By: Mark Lewis on Jul 18, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Fun, thin and sustained climbing! Scramble up the easy, albeit scary & crumbling choss pile to gain the 1st bolt (highly recommend stick-clipping the 1st bolt or walking around & up a slight trail that leads to a ledge to the right of the 1st bolt and carefully clipping it. A lot of lose rock has broken off while climbing up to the first bolt. Helmets should be used! After the 1st bolt the rock is solid.)

Traverse slightly to the left after the 1st bolt and up onto the main face. From here the climbing consists of small hold to small hold, with the crux about midway up the climb. Climbing sequentially and thoughtfully will help the climb come together. Very bouldery. If you can climb through the crux & ward off the pump you will find a decent rest a few moves below the anchors.

Solid at 5.12a for the area.

NOTE: In addition to The Gateway there appears to be another route on the left side of the crag (The Gateway is the route on the right side of the cliff) that someone has been putting in. I can't find any info on this climb.

Location

This route faces south and is the first climb/cliff you encounter on the approach to El Diablo Wall and Hell Cave. You can see the crag across the highway from the parking pull-out for the above named areas. You walk around this crag and up a short talus field to gain the 'main' El Diablo area.

Protection

5 bolts up to a 2-chain anchor. Good bolt placements. Easy to hike around the back-side of the crag and set a TR. As of the Spring of 2012 all bolts and anchors were in great shape.

Photos

Rud Johansen
  5.12a
Rud Johansen  
  5.12a
Got it the sixth visit to the wall. My hardest 12a with sustained, sequence climbing. I have watched falls or taken them on every bolt and they were all clean with solid protection. Nov 6, 2016
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
If anyone has info on the FA date please let me know and I'll update the route. Also, if anyone has info on the climb to the left of Gateway shoot me some info and I'll add the climb into MP's database. Thanks! Jul 18, 2012