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Routes in El Diablo Wall

Big G, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Body Count S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cop Killer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dead Souls S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
El Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gateway, The S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Half Acre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heck S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I'll Take Black S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Inferno S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Malvado S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Feller S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power Junkie S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Purgatory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
San Miguel S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Satanism and Sports S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Soul Fission S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
White Noise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Txavo Vales
Page Views: 3,171 total · 18/month
Shared By: Neal Carroll on Oct 11, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


This is a great route...and I think an American Fork classic. I've included this route as modified because I want to play by the rules of this site...and any route with a hold commonly referred to as "The Sika Pocket" is going to have to be suspect.

Anyway, this route is 8 or so routes in from the right on the El Diablo Wall and shares the start with another classic "Malvado" (13a)...ask a local for beta. Another point of reference is the route "Inferno" (13b), which is one route to the left.

Start with the first bolt pre clipped (don't be confused by the smattering of old bolts...the bomber glue-ins are the only bolts used for this route...unless you're doggin') do a hard move into a left hand undercling, throw up to a pocket...then you're off to the races. The routes split at their respective third bolts, each clipped from the "sika pocket". The difficulties end here for "El Diablo"...but many folks pump off on the ensuing 11+ climbing due to the pump and/or nerves associated with doing your first "hard" route. I'd know...

The grading of this route is settling in around 5.12d.


6 or 7 QDs...usually fixed.


In Spring of 2008 I straightened out Diablo with a direct start (3 new bolts). I was calling it San Miguel. Bouldery from the start to the last crux of Diablo with no rests. I think maybe 13c, but who knows. Aug 22, 2008
Sandy, UT
sfotex   Sandy, UT
Splits right at the pocket at the 3rd fixed draw. Jun 18, 2011

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