Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed?
Page Views: 399 total · 7/month
Shared By: camhead on Mar 24, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

This is an overlooked classic that has a bit of everything on it, including bomber pockets that seem way more like something from Funk Rock City at the RRG than anything at the NRG! It shares the same steep, bouldery start as Mechanical Bull (13a), but after the "bull's head" rest, moves directly right. Fairly easy underclings laybacks for a couple bolts lead into a left-moving pre-crux of sequential pockets, crimps, and the best jug on the route (which has NO feet, dammit!). The pump builds until you reach a not-quite-good-enough hole at the base of the marble-white roof. From here, either do a classic crux jump move, or figure out some trickery. After this crux, there is a final slab that you can definitely blow it on, although it is nowhere as hard as the final slab on Mechanical Bull.

Location

Obvious start, same as Mechanical Bull.

Protection

8 bolts to bolted anchor.

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