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Routes in Jacob's Ladder Area

Baby Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Churning In the Butter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fat Back S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jacob's Ladder T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c R
Just Forget It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mechanical Bull, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nut Nut, the Squirrel. T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Second Amendment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Shotgun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Nelson, Joe DeGaetano, Chris Whisenhunt (headpoint style)
Page Views: 260 total · 6/month
Shared By: camhead on Sep 17, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the obvious extension of the bolted crack, Shotgun (12b). After climbing Shotgun, get it all back at a sit-down rest beneath the roof. Place a red or gold camalot in the back of the roof before doing a cool, reachy maneuver over the lip. After getting established over the roof on the upper headwall, you have quite a few gear options and some great jugs for recovering. You'll need full recovery for the final boulder problem, which takes crimps, sidepulls, and slopers up over a little bulge. After this crux, place more bomber gear for the final 5.8 moves through some chossy flakes.

Location

Same as Shotgun; right of Fatback and left of Fearful Symmetry; obvious bolted left-leaning seam.

Protection

Red Camalot and long sling for the back of the roof, .5-.3 Camalots for the upper headwall, with emphasis on .4. No anchor.

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