Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 38.05651, -81.04878
FA: Paul Nelson, Joe DeGaetano, Chris Whisenhunt (headpoint style)
Page Views: 945 total · 7/month
Shared By: camhead on Sep 17, 2014
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

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Description Suggest change

This is the obvious extension of the bolted crack, Shotgun (12b), and it has no moves anywhere near as hard as those on the lower crack. After climbing Shotgun, get it all back at a sit-down rest beneath the roof. Place a red or gold camalot in the back of the roof before doing a cool, reachy maneuver over the lip. After getting established over the roof on the upper headwall, you have quite a few gear options and some great jugs for recovering. You'll need full recovery for the final boulder problem, which takes crimps, sidepulls, and slopers up over a little bulge. After this crux, place more bomber gear for the final 5.8 moves through some chossy flakes.

Location Suggest change

Same as Shotgun; right of Fatback and left of Fearful Symmetry; obvious bolted left-leaning seam.

Protection Suggest change

Red Camalot and long sling for the back of the roof, .5-.3 Camalots for the upper headwall, with emphasis on .4. No anchor.

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