All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Cactus Flower Tower > Cactus Flower Tower Summit
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 1500 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Larry DeAngelo, John Hegyes|
|Page Views:||1,029 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||fossana on Jan 8, 2014|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionOn my most recent trip to Red Rocks I was paging through Handren's guide for something more remote with a reasonable amount of vertical. It was also early January, so I knew I couldn't go overboard with the minimal amount of daylight. The E Arete, noted as a worthy alpine style excursion, caught my eye. There was barely any beta listed in Handren beyond the approach and the fact it starts in the gully. I had done the approach to Inti Watana twice before and the long descent off the summit once (mostly in the dark), so I realized it could be a long day but I wasn't going in completely blind. Larry kindly provided advice about the approximate start, rock quality and max sized gear. Lastly, I convinced one of my Sierra partners to tag along.
It's definitely not sustained climbing (we soloed most of it) and there's plenty of shrubbery. Not surprisingly there was some friable rock in spots. But if you're down for an alpine-like adventure route with hard to beat summit views and don't have a ton of daylight, then this could be your route.
It's a ridge traverse of a fairly broad ridge, so it's kind of a choose your own adventure. Larry advised against the direct start, which is vegetated and lacks pro placements. Based on his advice start in the gully slightly uphill from the start of Gift of the Wind Gods. From here gain the ridge and follow it to the summit.
The lower portion of the route quickly goes into the shade during the winter.
Knowing that we would come out via Oak Creek Canyon and not wanting to drive the loop road, we parked at the pullout 0.5 miles from the loop road exit near the old campground road.
Approach as for Inti Watana (see excellent approach beta from Eric and Lucie or Dow), but don't take the side gully coming in from the left. Instead continue up the main gully to an obvious saddle next to Aeolian Wall. Walk downhill for a short ways, then scramble up the steepening gully a short ways until you find a suitable spot to surmount the ridge. This took us a little over 2 hours, although I am reasonably familiar with the Inti Watana approach twice.
See the Cactus Flower summit descent listed for Cinnamon Hedgehog.