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Routes in Trashcan Boulders

Grab-Ass V0+ 4+
Gripper Traverse V0 4
Moai V0 4
Mr. Freeze V5 6C
Ripper V2 5+
Unnamed V0 4
Type: Boulder, 40 ft
FA: Mike Guardino, 1982
Page Views: 646 total · 12/month
Shared By: johannsolo on Dec 9, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Thin face just right of Butterfly crack. Joins that route around the 20 foot mark


TR or pads


The world is getting gray between Soloing and Bouldering. I would put it at 16-18' where you join the crack. 5.7 (or easier) from there.

Regardless, the rock quality is exceptional and it IS close to the road! How many decades have I walked right by there?
Should have posted the shot where you glanced over at the camera looking for some support on whether you should continue up or jump off (crickets chirping).
That was my favorite from the set.

Jon Gipson Dec 10, 2013
So Cal
johannsolo   So Cal
Bouldered it out today. Great problem, not too high. Dec 28, 2013
The FA was an on-sight solo, and Mike thought it was .12b or .12c when he did it. The Gargoyle stands 6'4" and he has a +5" ape index. When he sent this in '82 it was one of the hardest things in the park, and he did it long before crash pads came into the picture, so the hard landing would have been nasty from up high.

Mike was Best Man at my wedding in '92, and both his dad and mine were actors who also knew each other. The Gargoyle, or Gar as many called him, would light up any room with his unbelievable sense of humor, noises and posturing.

On the overhanging side of a boulder near the North side of Intersection Rock is his magnum opus: "The Mediterranean Sundance", V10...still one of the hardest boulder problems in the park.

To protect the innocent, I will not elaborate on Mike's ...hmm..."state of mind" when he put up Mr. Freeze...

If you are lucky, you might run into Mike on one of his strolls around Stoney Point, but he cannot climb because of a deep tissue injury he sustained many years ago. He'll still get you to laugh!

Mike remains one of my best friends, and he insisted on doing TR's with a swami, "Pete, it motivates you to pull harder and not fall!!" he'd say...probably true. Apr 18, 2015

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