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Routes in Midway Rock

Dauntless S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diagonal Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagonal Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erin Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flight Deck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Goony Dunes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Self Abuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senro No Ejjin S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turning Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urchins Ate the Coral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wish it Was a Palm Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 832 total, 17/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Nov 17, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is an often overlooked Sugarloaf classic splitter. It's difficult to see from the approach trail but once you see it, it's one of those routes you just have to climb. Thin fingers and hands start the route and quickly turn into perfect hands. As you near the top the crack continues to widen into rattley fists and keeps it on you right to the top.

Location

The left hand crack located up around the far right side of Midway Rock.

Photos

ASid
SF, CA
ASid   SF, CA
Great route! Would be 4 stars if it was longer.

A #4 would be great where the crack opens up near the top, but not too necessary as the climbing eases up from then on. Apr 24, 2017
Alex Lloyd
Santa Cruz, CA
  5.8
Alex Lloyd   Santa Cruz, CA
  5.8
A very enjoyable line that deserves more attention. The ST says natural anchor, but there are two shiny bolts up top. Feb 10, 2017