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Routes in Midway Rock

Dauntless S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diagonal Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagonal Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erin Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flight Deck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Goony Dunes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Self Abuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senro No Ejjin S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turning Point S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urchins Ate the Coral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wish it Was a Palm Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Royal Robbins
Page Views: 3,629 total · 41/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Feb 6, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Put away the old flogging whip and pay the penance for your sinful ways on Self Abuse instead. This flaring maw of a crack starts with some sharp finger locks you will combine with lower body slab and chimney techniques to surmount. The hand jams following this bouldery crux section quickly lead to the flaring squeeze chimney you will grow to know, and, well, probably hate.

If the reason for this climb's name has not become apparent to you at some point during the squeeze, your technique is more dialed than mine. Caution is required, however, for there is some hollow rock as well as untrustworthy flakes inside the crack, but solid protection can be found. And remember to say hi to the alligator lizard as you pass, it is mellow and doesn't seem bitey.

Location

The obvious O'Keeffe-esque crack on the South face of Midway Rock.

Protection

1" - 3" says the guidebook. #1-#4 Camalots will probably make you happy. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.10
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.10
We installed two fine new quicklinks on the lower set of bolts yesterday (4/10); I have the old quicklink/biner if you'd like them back. Best way to setup TR is have two people go to top, one raps down to lower anchor, pulls ropes and sets up anchor, then raps to ground while other person cleans top anchor and walks back around. You may be able to just rap off Flight Deck anchors as well.

Ze Lizard of WYDE and his family are still chillin, though the slug was nowhere to be found.

First climb I have done where one arm smells like a pond afterwards! Great fun. Pulled small flake off near top, so be wary. And do your physics homework before belaying! Apr 11, 2011
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
 
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
 
Definitely did not find a lower set of anchors. Led it two days ago and end up running it out from the off width all the way to the top anchors (easy 4th with one chimney section on top). Definitely did not want to do the runout face to the bolt due to a huge fall potential. Set up a TR from top anchors with some descent rope drag. Grunting and suffering are two great techniques to get you through the crux parts. Feb 25, 2015
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
 
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
 
Also, 2 #4s will definitely make you feel much mo' betta. Feb 25, 2015
kendallt
Tahoe
kendallt   Tahoe
I have no style so I brought two #4s, a #5, and a #6. I placed them all and was happy to have them while I flailed.

There are two bolts leading to the anchors up top, but the bottom one is missing the hangar. Run it and gun it, or take to the easy upper chimney. There are no quick links or rappel rings on the anchors, so it's a walk off.

Ze Lizard of WYDE and his family are gone. They have been displaced by a giant, dragon-like beast. There is no earthly way for such a beast to exist, I suspect this sinister animal is feeding on the crushed souls and shattered dreams of those climbers hoping to onsight. Apr 17, 2017

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