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Routes in Midway Rock

Dauntless S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diagonal Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagonal Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erin Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flight Deck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Goony Dunes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Self Abuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senro No Ejjin S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turning Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urchins Ate the Coral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wish it Was a Palm Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Duane Lyons
Page Views: 753 total, 9/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Feb 6, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There are three crux areas on this slab/face climb. The first is the initial move before the first bolt. From this crimpy mantle you traverse right and up to the bolt. The second is between bolts two and three, and the third consists of fairly sustained climbing between the last four bolts of the climb. Good smearing, crimping, and maybe a hand-foot match or two will see you through. Much like any slab climb, it looks a lot easier from the ground.

Location

Left and around the corner from Self Abuse, the start is a chalked mantle near a sandy base located by a medium-sized boulder and tree. Traversing even further right from the same start will put you on the next bolt line, Gooney Dunes 5.9/10a.

Protection

8 bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10b
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10b
The cuxiest crux for me is the last one in the description. Great lead! Aug 23, 2011