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Midway Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Midway Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dauntless S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Diagonal Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Diagonal Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Erin Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flight Deck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Goony Dunes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Indigo S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Self Abuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Self Care S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Senro No Ejjin S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Turning Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Urchins Ate the Coral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Wish it Was a Palm Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	4,462 ft
GPS:	38.7751, -120.3095 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	18,462 total · 120/month
Shared By:	Colonel Mustard on Feb 6, 2011
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

Description

As you might have guessed, Midway Rock is located about halfway up to the Sugarloaf proper. By the time the trail makes a sharp right before getting steeper, you will have already noticed the distinctive gaping maw of a crack called Self Abuse directly in front of you on the South face of Midway.

There are a handful or more face climbs on the rock to the left of Self Abuse, and to the right several lieback and jamming cracks, as well as a sport route or three.

Getting There

Follow the trail from the power plant as approaching Sugarloaf. About halfway up, you cannot miss this overgrown boulder with a wide crack in the center. Allow 10-15 minutes to approach.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 27 ● Diagonal Left Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 18 ● Diagonal Right Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 30 ● Goony Dunes Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 41 ● Self Abuse Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 24 ● Turning Point Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 15 ● Urchins Ate the Coral Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 7 ● Erin Arete Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 3 ● Flight Deck Trad