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Routes in Midway Rock

Dauntless S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diagonal Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagonal Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erin Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flight Deck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Goony Dunes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Self Abuse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senro No Ejjin S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turning Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urchins Ate the Coral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wish it Was a Palm Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Description

As you might have guessed, Midway Rock is located about halfway up to the Sugarloaf proper. By the time the trail makes a sharp right before getting steeper, you will have already noticed the distinctive gaping maw of a crack called Self Abuse directly in front of you on the South face of Midway.

There are a handful or more face climbs on the rock to the left of Self Abuse, and to the right several lieback and jamming cracks, as well as a sport route or three.

Getting There

Follow the trail from the power plant as approaching Sugarloaf. About halfway up, you cannot miss this overgrown boulder with a wide crack in the center. Allow 10-15 minutes to approach.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Diagonal Left
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Diagonal Right
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Goony Dunes
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Turning Point
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Self Abuse
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Diagonal Left
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Diagonal Right
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Goony Dunes
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Turning Point
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Self Abuse
 27
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Midway Rock »

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