Elevation: 4,462 ft
GPS: 38.775, -120.31 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,098 total · 72/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Feb 6, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

As you might have guessed, Midway Rock is located about halfway up to the Sugarloaf proper. By the time the trail makes a sharp right before getting steeper, you will have already noticed the distinctive gaping maw of a crack called Self Abuse directly in front of you on the South face of Midway.

There are a handful or more face climbs on the rock to the left of Self Abuse, and to the right several lieback and jamming cracks, as well as a sport route or three.

Getting There

Follow the trail from the power plant as approaching Sugarloaf. About halfway up, you cannot miss this overgrown boulder with a wide crack in the center. Allow 10-15 minutes to approach.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Diagonal Left
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Diagonal Right
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 15
Goony Dunes
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Self Abuse
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Turning Point
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Diagonal Left
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Diagonal Right
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Goony Dunes
 15
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Self Abuse
 27
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Turning Point
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Midway Rock »

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