All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area

Midway Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Midway Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dauntless S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Diagonal Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Diagonal Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Erin Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flight Deck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Goony Dunes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Indigo (aka Second Best) S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Self Abuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Self Care S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Senro No Ejjin S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Turning Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Urchins Ate the Coral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Wish it Was a Palm Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	4,462 ft	1,360 m
GPS:	38.7751, -120.3095 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	18,861 total · 112/month
Shared By:	Colonel Mustard on Feb 6, 2011
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

As you might have guessed, Midway Rock is located about halfway up to the Sugarloaf proper. By the time the trail makes a sharp right before getting steeper, you will have already noticed the distinctive gaping maw of a crack called Self Abuse directly in front of you on the South face of Midway.

There are a handful or more face climbs on the rock to the left of Self Abuse, and to the right several lieback and jamming cracks, as well as a sport route or three.

Getting There

Follow the trail from the power plant as approaching Sugarloaf. About halfway up, you cannot miss this overgrown boulder with a wide crack in the center. Allow 10-15 minutes to approach.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 31 ● Diagonal Left Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 32 ● Goony Dunes Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 22 ● Diagonal Right Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 5 ● Indigo (aka Second Best) Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 42 ● Self Abuse Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 26 ● Turning Point Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 16 ● Urchins Ate the Coral Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 7 ● Erin Arete Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 4 ● Flight Deck Trad