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Routes in Midway Rock

Dauntless S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diagonal Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagonal Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erin Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flight Deck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Goony Dunes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Self Abuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senro No Ejjin S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Turning Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urchins Ate the Coral S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wish it Was a Palm Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: Duane Lyons, 2007
Page Views: 297 total · 6/month
Shared By: Josh Cameron on Jan 29, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Start by chimney-ing up by using the tree for your back and feet on the rock. Place a sling in the tree then pull onto the rock. When the bolt line splits, follow the left line.

The right line is It Seams to Go to Midway (10d/11a). However, from Wish it Was a Palm Tree the line takes 2 quickdraws and goes at 5.9. It is sporty/runout on 5.7 after the last bolt. Bolt anchor on top.


On the east side of Midway Rock. This will be the bolted line farthest to the right at the top of the hill.

The easiest approach is from Dental Rock.

The quickest approach is to hike around the west side of Midway Rock. Then up the short but steep gully over the north side of Midway and over to the east side.


5 quickdraws and a sling for the tree. Bolt anchor at top. Walk off right.


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