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Routes in The Dollar Store

Any Way You Want It T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushmaster S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closed for lunch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Price Check S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Push to Open S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brad Johnson, John Robinson
Page Views: 2,349 total · 40/month
Shared By: Brad J on Nov 14, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Protection

9 bolts long to bare bolts a few feet right of the ring anchors on Push to Open. Use the ring anchors when it comes time to clean your anchor; it's super easy to back-track to Push to Open while remaining tied in.

Mussies to in the next week or two.

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Bill Price
  5.9
Bill Price  
  5.9
Great route, well bolted, boulder start, tricky near top and finish. Mar 8, 2014
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.9
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.9
Super fun route 9 bolts long to ring anchors shared with Push to Open to the left. Mar 24, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Thanks Kelley, added your note to the route write up. Mar 24, 2014
Marcus McCoy
Yosemite Valley, CA
  5.10a
Marcus McCoy   Yosemite Valley, CA
  5.10a
Super fun climb, this and push to open are definitely the two best routes at this spot in my opinion. Individual move difficulty on push to open could be slightly harder, or perhaps the same, but I felt this route was slightly more sustained. Mar 28, 2015
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Start off under the small roof (directly in line with the bolts) and pull it instead of starting to the right. Adds some spice to the climb! Crux is higher up where it gets thin like the rest of the climbs on this wall. Apr 25, 2016
Whitney Christine
Nevada City, CA
  5.10a
Whitney Christine   Nevada City, CA
  5.10a
The third to last and fourth to last bolts are about to blow (08/06/17). They're spinning and pulling, and unless a good Samaritan comes by to help out, I'd avoid the route and just lap Push To Open.

Overall, a really fun, kind of spooky, sustained route. I agree that it feels more like a .10a than Push To Open. Thin after the fourth bolt, you can deck from the third. Aug 7, 2017
carl al
 
carl al  
 
bolts were good today 10/2. Didn't notice any spinning but if they are they are still bomber.

fun route. start is kinda cryptic, but easy to stem around. The route is still 5.9 even if you wuss around the start (which v1ish). Oct 2, 2017
Brad J
 
Brad J  
 
Those bolts go into the rock either 2 1/2 or 3 inches and the pull out force is around 6000 lbs. A bolt "blowing" out of the rock is extremely unlikely. The more likely failure would be a bolt breaking but the shear strength of a 3/8 stainless bolt is over 6000 lbs. Kind of hard to generate those kind of forces short of hanging your SUV off of one. Bolts do break whether it be from age or improper installation. I assess bolts on surface rust, rock type, location of the bolt and visual damage. That does not guarantee a good bolt but I can share this: Back in the day we fell on 1/4 inch button heads that we could pull out of the rock with our fingers. Scares hell out of me when I think about it too much. I'm happy to fall on any bolt at the Emeralds but it's up to every climber to assess the risk and make that call on their own. As a side note, I also do not like to take lead falls when there is one bolt between me and the ground.

The start on this climb is a dead point directly past the first bolt using some crimps on the left side. Much more fun than going right. Oct 6, 2017
Bill Price
  5.9
Bill Price  
  5.9
Brad/John, wanted your opinion about leaving off the washer of the bolt and just tightening the nut to the hangar? As a builder, whenever we have a metal connector that gets bolted together, we consider the metal connector sufficient to tighten the nut against without a washer. In my opinion, in climbing bolt situations, the washer can sometimes allow the hangar to spin freely and eventually loosen the nut. Not to say that it would not happen with just the nut against the hangar, but if the nut is sufficiently torqued down it should hold the hangar from spinning? Of course there are a lot of variables of position on climbing routes. And what about using a lock washer or lock nut? I think 5 piece bolts don't have this issue, but are more expensive? Oct 7, 2017
Brad J
 
Brad J  
 
Bill

We've used the washer because one comes with all the stainless bolts we purchase and we assumed it implied a "system". Also, my thinking has been that if a hanger gets yanked around in a fall the washer could keep the nut from spinning loose. No real foundation for either idea. Good thoughts, I think maybe we should test your idea?? We're going out on Weds to bolt the dihedral to the right of the new climb. It's going to have some cool stemming moves for a 5.8. Come out if you can, we can climb and talk about bolting. . Oct 7, 2017
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
 
Matt Franklin   Sacramento, CA
 
Hey Brad/John/Bill - if you think this warrants a few 1/2" Powers bolts let me know. I have some from CRAGS and put one on the little roof on Bushmaster cuz the bolt there kept loosening up. I think these routes get a lot of traffic and things get hung/swung on a lot. Nylon nuts may be a good fix too. Curious about the washer thing so interested to hear your thoughts. Anyway PM me if you want a few Powers for this. Oct 9, 2017
Kyle Bishop
Nevada City, CA
Kyle Bishop   Nevada City, CA  
Added a separate anchor for this after checking in with Brad. Should lessen the traffic jams at Dollar Store. It's just right of the shared anchor but doesn't have mussies yet.

Will bring mussies when I return, until then it's super easy to back track to the shared rings and lower off. Makes for a much more direct top rope and should appease those that were getting riled up over sharing an anchor :9 Jul 13, 2018
Nick Andrew
  5.9+
Nick Andrew  
  5.9+
I found this route to be REALLY fun. Sustained climbing that can offer an appropriate use of just about every climbing technique in the book. I found there were two cruxes that were a bit harder than 5.9, one about halfway up and one just before the last bolt (the hanger of which has some play, but still seems fairly solid.) Jump on this route; it is well bolted and a blast in my opinion. Jul 21, 2018

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