Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 682 total · 15/month
Shared By: dholte on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Easy stemming, fingers, hands, layback moves through the dihedral leads to a massive ledge with a tree. Crack goes on 15-20 feet above that on what looks like 5.6 climbing (no bolted anchors). This would be an easy 5.9 trad lead if you're bothering to carry gear. There are plenty of good rests and gear is straightforward.

Alternatively, you can lead Push to Open or Closed for Lunch set up a top rope using the top two bolts on Closed for Lunch as directional pieces. This is a good way to eke out a 5th climb on this wall.

Overall, the climb is still pretty sandy/grainy and could use more traffic. Not nearly as nice as the other climbs on the wall, but its something different.

Location

Obvious crack in a large dihedral right of Closed for Lunch.

Protection

Single rack, fingers-hands. Or top rope.

Photos

Nata
San Francisco
 
Nata   San Francisco
 
My group did this as a sort of trad clinic on Saturday. It was really fun! I don't see how you would set up a top rope from the next route over, anchors or bolts. It's quite far and would be a good swing. I suppose you could move totally off route going left out of the dihedral before finishing it, but then you're skipping the most interesting part of the route. Jun 27, 2017
Brad J  
Dholte, we talked to the FA about putting an anchor on this climb and he was totally OK with the idea. Do you want to add it? Jan 3, 2018
dholte
Mountain View, CA
  5.8
dholte   Mountain View, CA
  5.8
Hey Brad, I haven't been out there in a while, but would the anchor be right after the dihedral, or ~20 feet or so above that after what I called "5.6 or so?" If it was easy to access, it would be nice to make the route as long as possible... but i'm not even sure where the route technically ends.

Edit: Ah you're asking me if I want to. I'd love to, but I live a busy life these days. I'll shoot you an email. Jan 3, 2018
Brad J  
Sorry, I haven't been on this site in a while. My thought was to put the anchor well above the top of the dihedral. Going up on Sunday to put up a couple of anchors on walls to the left of the fortress.
I'll try to get this done also. May 3, 2018
Brad J  
Added a two bolt anchor to the top of the climb ten feet above the end of the dihedral. Will put up musseys once we get some but for now bring webbing. May 12, 2018