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Terrapin Station
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Early Access
Routes in Poe Buttress
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Edge of Fright T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Maelstrom, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mississippi Half-Step T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Off Your Rocker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Prequel to the Sequel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Terrapin Station T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Uptown Toodeloo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 39.42141, -105.2548 |
| FA: | Mike Schlauch, Mike Pennings, Oct. 8, 2013 |
| Page Views: | 1,648 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | mike schlauch on Oct 24, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Terrapin Station starts with the first section of Edge of Fright's second pitch. At the horizontal where Edge of Fright goes left, step up and right into the obvious, discontinuous crack system. Piece together the puzzle, stepping back and forth between Poe's rightmost cracks and the next crack to the left. A 3.5 or 4 cam may help protect the initial section, although we didn't have any of those on the FA.
The crux is probably where the first discontinuous crack section ends and forces you to reach left with a committing move above good gear. Have a finger-size piece ready to place. Switch back to the right crack near the top and then continue to the Mississippi Half Step anchors.
This is dedicated to Steve Dieckhoff. He and I hunted around for a new route on the right side of Poe in the early '90s, getting shut down on what is now Prequel to the Sequel (nice job on that FA!). We never completed a new route, so when Prequel was recently climbed, I decided to go have another look.
Keeping the Grateful Dead theme alive on Poe Buttress. RIP, Steve.
Protection
Basically the same as Edge of Fright, with the addition of a 3.5 or 4 cam. A 70m rope with some extra long runners or double ropes is recommended.
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