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Routes in Poe Buttress

Brothers in Arms T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Edge of Fright T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Eyes of the World T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Maelstrom, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Half-Step T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Off Your Rocker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Prequel to the Sequel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Uptown Toodeloo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Matt Reeser & Dave Montgomery, 1-9-13
Page Views: 1,380 total, 23/month
Shared By: Monty on Jan 9, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

It's so cool to think that this route has been sitting in plain sight, just waiting for somebody motivated enough to claim it. This is a beautiful pitch that demands focus until the very end.

Prequel to the Sequel is the direct start to the 2nd pitch of the Edge of Fright but also has its own steep headwall finish. Directly above the bolted anchor, a seam starts 15 feet up. Slab and face climb this seam past a pin (11+ PG-13) with fidely gear to a jug rest. Calm your head, then climb a tips crack that dead ends at a steep wall. Crimp and face climb the seam through the steep wall (crux), with a hard to place nut that eventually gives way to the twin cracks of Edge of Fright. Follow the "Edge" for 30 feet until it is possible to switch to the left crack and power out the steep headwall finale (11+).

Location

This is between the 2nd pitches of Edge of Fright and Mississippi Half Step. It is listed as project #9 in the New Fixed Pin Book.

Protection

A lone pin and lots of small gear, nothing bigger than a #0.5 Camalot.... Some of the gear can be very tricky to find, but every piece is bomber.

Descend using the fixed nut anchor on top of Mississippi Half-Step. A 70m rope is required.

Photos

dameeser
denver
  5.12c PG13
dameeser   denver
  5.12c PG13
Hard, mentally and physically. The gear on this route is safe, you just need to know where it is. Slab to hard face to overhanging crack, fantastic! Jan 9, 2013